replacing u-joints
Moderator: Club Officers
replacing u-joints
im having a PITA time trying to replace some old u-joints on the waggy axle. I removed all 4 c clips but now the caps wont slide out. Ive been trying the BFH and socket method to no avail and dont wanna bend the ends of the drive shaft, anyone know any tricks for getting out troublesome caps?
DD: 2003 GC Limited, 4.7L
Trail Rig: hmmm
Trail Rig: hmmm
I have had the best luck with saturating them with PB blaster, try some heat if that doesn't work on it's own. If you don't have a torch, just bake em in the oven for a little while, works on driveshafts
If you have already tried PB and heat, then I've got nothing, if you use a press you can end up bending the ears, I've done that before too...
If you have already tried PB and heat, then I've got nothing, if you use a press you can end up bending the ears, I've done that before too...
00 TJ, Mall Rated, couple beauty marks, new facelift
10 Ram - RIP
10 Ram - RIP
I have used two methods and had decent luck with both.
One method is to use the c-clamp from a ball joint set. Clamp the c-clamp in a vise so it won't go anywhere. Then you can hold the axle shaft or drive shaft in one hand to get it lined up and then hold it steady while you turn the screw with a ratchet. Tighten the screw to where it is snug, then hit the end of it with a hammer. Tighten some more, hit with hammer. Continue until you eventually get all of the caps out.
The other method uses the vise as well. Place the yoke in the vise so that two ears are resting on the tops of the vise jaws. You should have one cap facing straight up. Using a hammer hit the yoke near the cap so you essentially drive the yoke down, while the two ears resting on the vise jaws drive the u-joint up. Eventually the cap should start to move and will come out. I used this method one day in a junkyard on a truck tailgate. Had a stub shaft and inner shaft from an early 80's Wagoneer separated in about 15 minutes.
One method is to use the c-clamp from a ball joint set. Clamp the c-clamp in a vise so it won't go anywhere. Then you can hold the axle shaft or drive shaft in one hand to get it lined up and then hold it steady while you turn the screw with a ratchet. Tighten the screw to where it is snug, then hit the end of it with a hammer. Tighten some more, hit with hammer. Continue until you eventually get all of the caps out.
The other method uses the vise as well. Place the yoke in the vise so that two ears are resting on the tops of the vise jaws. You should have one cap facing straight up. Using a hammer hit the yoke near the cap so you essentially drive the yoke down, while the two ears resting on the vise jaws drive the u-joint up. Eventually the cap should start to move and will come out. I used this method one day in a junkyard on a truck tailgate. Had a stub shaft and inner shaft from an early 80's Wagoneer separated in about 15 minutes.
- VerticalTRX
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Unless its a relatively new u-joint I generally go straight for the torch. Cut the cross out first, then cut the caps out of the ears. If your good you can shave the cap right out of the ear without nicking it.
Oh, and a small explosion and grease fire are almost sure to ensue, just to let you know.
Oh, and a small explosion and grease fire are almost sure to ensue, just to let you know.
'79 F-150
'49 CJ-3A
'49 CJ-3A
they have grease fittings on them so i dont think they are the OEM ones but they are pretty old and have a lot of corrosion between the caps and the ears. i guess i will try and cut them out with a sawzall and then drill out the caps or try and knock em out.
DD: 2003 GC Limited, 4.7L
Trail Rig: hmmm
Trail Rig: hmmm