Bet you never thought Grubb would own a Yota...

[VerticalTRX]

...but I do now.

Picked up a '97 Tacoma for a DD, 148K, excellent condition. 3RZ, 5spd, manual hubs, and a set of the smallest BFG A/T's known to man:






Got a couple questions for the yota guys, I looked at the door tag and can't seem to find the axle code, I'd like to know what ratio it has, any ideas?:

Tag:


Also, being as how this is a toyota, I expect it to go to 300K miles. With that being said, I'm getting ready to change all fluids, what is the best engine, trans/t-case, and gear oil to run in these things?

Oh, and since I'm sure someone will ask, this is only a DD, no wheeling in the near future. However, once I've thoroughly worn it out as a DD I can see an SAS and Q78's in its future.

[Leach]

Did you pick that up from a lot recently? I went and looked at it window shopping/or atleast one just like it. Where I saw it I dont reemember, just thinking a club member should pick it up.

And welcome to the yota side.

[VerticalTRX]

Did you pick that up from a lot recently? I went and looked at it window shopping/or atleast one just like it. Where I saw it I dont reemember, just thinking a club member should pick it up.

And welcome to the yota side.

Yup that was probably it, bought it at Duncan Jeep.

[Leach]

Thats the one. Congrats

[tsmall07]

Nice job. Glad you got the 4x4 instead! How much?

[shmoken875]

funky fresh, looks good

[yotacowboy]

higher mile yota engines are no different than others... i'd go for full synthetic 5w30 in the winter, 10w30 in the summer, mostly to cut back on consumption. there's two schools of thought:

higher detergents/doin something like BG engine flush then switching over to full synthetic will do a good job at 'refreshing' the engine.

other idea is that with more than 100k miles, cleangin all the crud out of the engine is only going to make things worse, as the engine has broken in WITH that crud. every bearing tolerance,etc., will get bigger by cleaning everything out, which will cause all the wear surfaces to prematurely fail if a heavier weight oil (thicker film) isnt used...

i would recommend running toyota anitfreeze, the red stuff, since it's got an AL head.

you could go with redline in the tranny/t-case/axles... but i'm not sure it'd be worth the money.

[TerryD]

from a guy who gets quite a bit of mileage outta vehicles, and doesn't change the oil..... cheap motor oil, best filter you can get. you can use synthetic oil if you want to, just change it every 10K+ miles....longevity if in oil cleanliness, not quality. it all has to pass the same tests. for the t-case and tranny, do they take ATF? if so, tractor hydraulic fluid/transmission fluild will do a little better. still light weight, made for extreme heat, also designed for lots of loading. its in the tranny and t-case on the jeep. use a synthetic in the diffs. redline is ok, but ams-oil is the shiznit!!!

[alk1174]

Congrats on the yota. Heres a link to axle codes its the B02A code that refers to the axle. I think if I looked at it right its a 3:58 gear depends on you VIN#

http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/artic ... ?id=274535

[VerticalTRX]

Thanks for the replies, it does look as though it has 3.58 gears, I was almost sure it would be 4.10's based on what I had heard.

As for the oil, I'll probably go synthetic in the rear diff, but leave the rest conventional, maybe semi-synthetic in the engine, IDK. From my past experience synthetic in the rear diff makes the most difference, tranny and t-case it doesn't seem to be worth it. What viscosity do the axles and driveline take?

Tyler, the window sticker was $8990, I took it for $6500.

[MtnToys]

Factory service manual
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

[VerticalTRX]

Factory service manual
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

Thanks man, I was gonna buy one of those.