Holy crap, now something in the rear end broke loose...

Post by **Redneck7** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:08 pm

Finally got the damned transfer case right and today riding out to my property every time I lifted off the throttle it would whine quite noticeably. Burp the throttle and it would go away. Another few miles and it got to where it was a whine/chatter on coasting. Called my buddy and told him to clear the driveway/prime his wife because I was likely on my way to break down at his house again. Parked at my property, did my thing with a contractor out on the property and went to leave. Goosed the throttle and a loud clang preceded the loudest clattering/banging from the rearend I've ever heard and she ceased to moving. Rear driveshaft is spinning, but it isn't moving.

A.) Any thoughts on what I broke this time?
B.) I have a spare axle housing and 4.88 gears but no carrier. I can get a NEW open carrier and a Lock Right cheaper than I can get any other locker. Any reasons not to do that? Only reason I can think of is that I have a carrier that might be fine in the axle that semi-grenaded this afternoon. Detroit is likely to be stronger, but damn near twice the price stronger?
C.) Unrelated: Any reason not to weld the spiders on the front? I can disengage/engage the front diff at will in any gear range thanks to that overpriced manual choke cable I installed earlier this year (posi-lok), I never take the Suburban on trails with tight turns (or trails at all for that matter) seeing as its a freaking bus. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Ryan

YouTube · Post by **TerryD** » Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:37 pm

maybe loose ring gear bolts. Just have to pull it and check it out. I don't think I'd weld the front. Open in the front will do fine if you have a locker in the rear of some sort. How often do you lift a front tire?

Post by **Redneck7** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 6:17 am

"Lift" in the rock-crawling, one wheel in the air sense, never. "Lift" as in one wheel half way over a log looking pretty sitting still, one wheel behind it digging a rut...far too often.

Truck is getting more and more to be a 'for the property' vehicle (44 acres of low-lying woods or recently logged woods). Just figured if I'm in the front regearing, might be worth the effort at that point...

Post by **jac6695** » Wed Mar 31, 2010 12:04 pm

Sounds to me you have killed the gov lock. I just did that to my 14 bolt in my 97 over the winter. I had a lot of noise, then had one wheel drive, then lost all rear drive. Had to drive home in the snow in front drive from Blacksburg to Radford. If you still have a 10 bolt I would look for a 6 lug 14 bolt 9.5" to replace it with. They are cheap and will out-survive the truck.

I would highly avoid welding the spiders in the front. I think you will kill cv joints too quickly. If you want a locker, there are a couple of options (ARB and Eaton I believe both make one). If you don't want to spend the money for a locker then consider a solid axle swap. You can buy kits cheap, front axle cheap, and a locker for a D44 or D60 will cost half of one for an IFS diff.

Post by **Redneck7** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 5:48 am

I don't reckon I'll weld the front since I can't read anywhere where anyone thinks its a good idea, but explain how welded spiders are harder on CVs than a locked locker.

YouTube · Post by **TerryD** » Thu Apr 01, 2010 6:02 am

A locker allows one side to spin faster than other if the other wheel is holding traction, as in a turn. I see where you have the Posi-Lok system, but that's still one wheel bound to the t-case solid if you weld it and the CV shafts on that side will have a constant load on them in 4wd. CV's are not designed for that kinda loading. That's why the break under general use with just larger tires and open differential. Add the weight of a suburban and the shaft being in a constant bind and you'll get the picture.

And about the logs, I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but we have land that's been logged and go out riding on other property that has been as well. We usually just stick a small chainsaw in the back of the truck and cut the logs up and move them before we ever try to go over them.

Post by **Redneck7** » Sat Apr 03, 2010 8:53 pm

TerryD wrote:A locker allows one side to spin faster than other if the other wheel is holding traction, as in a turn. I see where you have the Posi-Lok system, but that's still one wheel bound to the t-case solid if you weld it and the CV shafts on that side will have a constant load on them in 4wd. CV's are not designed for that kinda loading. That's why the break under general use with just larger tires and open differential. Add the weight of a suburban and the shaft being in a constant bind and you'll get the picture.

And about the logs, I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but we have land that's been logged and go out riding on other property that has been as well. We usually just stick a small chainsaw in the back of the truck and cut the logs up and move them before we ever try to go over them.

Not being a smart ass either, but I don't think the locker in my Tacoma let one wheel spin faster, turn or not. It'd scrub the hell out of the tires if you locked it on pavement. As to the logs: I enjoy driving over them. Actually go bigger and bigger between my Suburban and my buddy's F250 until someone gets stuck and then we winch it off and move along...I carry a 16" bar Husvarna for turning driving logs into firelogs though

Post by **BadAssEddie** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 2:33 am

Redneck7 wrote:
TerryD wrote:A locker allows one side to spin faster than other if the other wheel is holding traction, as in a turn. I see where you have the Posi-Lok system, but that's still one wheel bound to the t-case solid if you weld it and the CV shafts on that side will have a constant load on them in 4wd. CV's are not designed for that kinda loading. That's why the break under general use with just larger tires and open differential. Add the weight of a suburban and the shaft being in a constant bind and you'll get the picture.

And about the logs, I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but we have land that's been logged and go out riding on other property that has been as well. We usually just stick a small chainsaw in the back of the truck and cut the logs up and move them before we ever try to go over them.
Not being a smart ass either, but I don't think the locker in my Tacoma let one wheel spin faster, turn or not. It'd scrub the hell out of the tires if you locked it on pavement. As to the logs: I enjoy driving over them. Actually go bigger and bigger between my Suburban and my buddy's F250 until someone gets stuck and then we winch it off and move along...I carry a 16" bar Husvarna for turning driving logs into firelogs though

16" thats cute.

Real men carry 20" 455 Ranchers :)

Post by **jac6695** » Sun Apr 04, 2010 10:20 am

Redneck7 wrote:
TerryD wrote:A locker allows one side to spin faster than other if the other wheel is holding traction, as in a turn. I see where you have the Posi-Lok system, but that's still one wheel bound to the t-case solid if you weld it and the CV shafts on that side will have a constant load on them in 4wd. CV's are not designed for that kinda loading. That's why the break under general use with just larger tires and open differential. Add the weight of a suburban and the shaft being in a constant bind and you'll get the picture.

And about the logs, I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but we have land that's been logged and go out riding on other property that has been as well. We usually just stick a small chainsaw in the back of the truck and cut the logs up and move them before we ever try to go over them.
Not being a smart ass either, but I don't think the locker in my Tacoma let one wheel spin faster, turn or not. It'd scrub the hell out of the tires if you locked it on pavement. As to the logs: I enjoy driving over them. Actually go bigger and bigger between my Suburban and my buddy's F250 until someone gets stuck and then we winch it off and move along...I carry a 16" bar Husvarna for turning driving logs into firelogs though

Terry is referring to allowing the tire to turn faster when unlocked.

Post by **Redneck7** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:38 am

Yeah yeah, 16" bar is what I have...if I had the money I'd have an 18" Dolmar saw for firewood and a 24" Stihl for fellin big stuff, but for now I make do.

As to the front, that's my point, aren't welded spiders the same as a front locker? If so, then can't I just knock the axles out of the diff with the posi lok and be 'unlocked'?

Post by **jac6695** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 12:08 pm

Redneck7 wrote:
As to the front, that's my point, aren't welded spiders the same as a front locker? If so, then can't I just knock the axles out of the diff with the posi lok and be 'unlocked'?

Sure, but our point is that when you do have the posi lok engaged, under most conditions you will create such a high load on the front axles when you are doing anything except going perfectly straight. Most auto lockers will unlock under no load and turning where as the welded gears won't have that option. You can get away with it in the rear because in most vehicles the rear is lighter yet usually a stronger axle, and there isn't as much speed differential between left and right, especially with long wheelbase vehicles.

YouTube · Post by **TerryD** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 4:40 pm

Also with the welded spiders, the posi-lok will only "unlock" one shaft, leaving the other still directly connected to the driveshaft without any means of easing the binding like the factory differential helps with. I had thought about putting a selectable of some sort in my DD Jeep. I've about settled on an ECTED because I'm not doing anything hard core with it and it'll surely hold for what I do do.

Post by **Redneck7** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:30 pm

TerryD wrote:Also with the welded spiders, the posi-lok will only "unlock" one shaft, leaving the other still directly connected to the driveshaft without any means of easing the binding like the factory differential helps with. I had thought about putting a selectable of some sort in my DD Jeep. I've about settled on an ECTED because I'm not doing anything hard core with it and it'll surely hold for what I do do.

Bad-boy carries a price tag (ECTED). In a nutshell I just didn't know if it'd be worth fooling with welding since I've got everything apart; I definitely don't have the money for anything other than a few welding rods. My big box of parts came from Randy's today with rear stuff, front install kit, etc, so hopefully I'll get everything setup here soon and back on (and off) the road again.

My buddy pulled the cover off of my rear diff and said there are bearing pieces everywhere. Said there was a chewed up race and a bunch of metal shards in there. I actually drove it onto the trailer last week without much fuss out of the rearend in 4lo. Put it in 2hi in his yard after unloading and she was making the most awful noises again.