Sinking Creek 4WD Association

SHES ALIVE!!!!!!!! The transmission defiantly has some issues though, wont move under idle and won't allow me to manually shift into d1 or d2 on the column. I suspect bad valve body and poor line pressure. It'll move under heavier acceleration but not well. Anyways, video of start up was too big to upload but she ran pretty smooth and all the sensors looked good.

buy my 4l60e lol

Build thread update for the two people that still use the forum.

Began building tube front when I did the engine swap in hopes of making this easier to access and I think it turned out alright. There are some things I would like to change and fix but overall it turned out alright. I used 1.5" HREW for the entire thing. Built a new core support for the radiator and fenders and hood as well. Tig welded most of the core support simply for practice but eventually switched to my 110v flux core mig to save time and money. The rear portion of the tube fenders are not yet mounted, I'm going to mount them to the roll cage A pillar as well as the rock slider if I ever get that far, as of now its kinda juts flopping around. Here are da piccs.

Update:
Added a cable shifter so I was able to jam my transmission into first gear again to bypass all the electrical issues on the trans, finished the roll cage (still have to mount it to frame) and began building center console and began replacing all the stock wiring.

To Do List for BigDogs (IMPORTANT)
Fix leaf spring perches
leaf spring bushings
replace drag link and track bar
new U-joint straps on Dana 70
move fuel tank/ replace with bronco fuel tank
chop and lower dash for moar visibility
clearance fenders
Transmission cooler
transmission temp gauge
replace winch roller

To Do List for big dogs (helpful but not required)
Traction bars on rear axle to help with axle wrap and protect drive shaft
replace shocks
hydro assist on front end
push front axle forward
transmission harness
make sliders out of non-fencepost material
tie roll cage into sliders/ frame
tie tube fenders into sliders
add audio equipment
sheet metal work round headlights
Rear cage work
front locker


Im sure there is more but that's all I can really think of.

Accurate list.

Now the real question is, Should I paint the tubes on the tube fenders yellow or black? Planning on adding aluminum paneling to the fenders and painting them the opposite color as the tubes. Leaning towards painting the tubes yellow to show off my booger weld work.

Another thing Id like to do is toss the idea around of making my own control arms. The existing ones are just stamp steel and are super flimsy with rubber bushings so I highly doubt anything I make will be weaker than them. These would just be temporary until I could afford upgrading to a legit 3 link but I already have the material besides the DOM bushings themselves. I just want to push the front axle forward more to give me more tires clearance but mainly for better approach angle. It would probably only be about a 4" stretch but would essentially allow for 8 more inches of tire and a decent amount more of down travel. I would have to make a new track bar mount but that was on the agenda anyways since mine is shot and the mount is trash. The steering box shouldn't need adjusting but if it does all it'll be is drilling new holes and extending steering shaft.

Can't be worse than some of the ghetto shit ya'll've done.

Pushing the axle forward about 4" probably will require new Track bar and Steering box mount. Subuquently longer intermediate shaft and possibly long front driveshaft.

Mr.WJ wrote: ↑Wed Mar 27, 2019 9:55 am Pushing the axle forward about 4" probably will require new Track bar and Steering box mount. Subuquently longer intermediate shaft and possibly long front driveshaft.

Yes, kinda why I was wanting to do it before I replaced the track bar because I wanted to swap it out with something from Barnes4wd since I cant adjust mine at all and its not set up for a longer traveling suspension since it has the tie rod end on the frame side. I believe Peter even gave me a track bar with the axle that should bolt into the ruffstuff or barnes mounts.

The thing is that if I push the axle forward I can run stock length drive shafts in my front end since after I did the ton swap I had to get my drive shaft shortened. Pushing the axle forward might be beneficial for being able to keep a cheaper spare, Depending on how much travel the stock one can adjust for.

For the steering box Ill have to see, its not really something that would be hard to modify, same goes for the intermediate shaft (to my knowledge). Not too educated on it but could I even get a shorter pitman arm? The knuckles hit full lock before the steering box does so would that be an option? Would also give me better leverage on the drag link so in theory it should actually turn better. This isn't really an issue since I plan to go to hydro assist anyways but it couldn't hurt.

Here is a Pirate link on pitman arm length, kinda confirmed what I was thinking. Shorter arm= less leverage on the box= easier to turn The turns wouldn't be as fast but that's not an issue offorad, especially if I cant even turn the steering wheel at all anyways.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general ... n-arm.html

Yes that was Thuren track bar

If I recall correctly when I was building mine I was looking at using an Astro Van steering box which is reverse throw but I was wanting to move more than 4"

BlueDodgeRam wrote: ↑Thu Mar 28, 2019 12:43 pm Yes that was Thuren track bar

If I recall correctly when I was building mine I was looking at using an Astro Van steering box which is reverse throw but I was wanting to move more than 4"

How much were you planning on pushing yours forward by? 4" was kinda Just a number I picked.

This guy on pirate went the same route with the reverse rotation steering box. Cool little jeep build thread.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-ha ... -42-s.html

I think Im getting a little carried away for my wallet and time at the moment so I am going to just stick with the 4" push (or however long the stock driveshafts allow me) and stick with that. If I want to go longer in the future Ill think of doing something more structurally sound like .250" tubing in a legit 3 link design and coil overs. From what I've read the stock link mount locations aren't all that strong without reinforcement anyways.

This will be the plan for after I get hydro assist and a front locker.

Like 6-8 inches or so.