Sinking Creek 4WD Association

I have an in-lb wrench. I wouldn't run the 8.25 with the gears you have now unless you're trailering it there and back...

Steinberg wrote:I have an in-lb wrench. I wouldn't run the 8.25 with the gears you have now unless you're trailering it there and back...

how low does it go? could I snag it for a week or two?

since you're using my basement go ahead and build me one too

shmoken875 wrote:

Steinberg wrote:I have an in-lb wrench. I wouldn't run the 8.25 with the gears you have now unless you're trailering it there and back...

how low does it go? could I snag it for a week or two?

low enough. when you wanna get it?

Let me know if you see that reamer when grabbing the torque wrench

break in is 20min at no more than 35mph. Let diff cool till cool to the touch before repeating.

I understand that break-in is prudent, but seriously, when was the last time anyone broke in a new car according to 'spec'? and how do you break-in the gears, engine, transmission, etc with all of their special requirements simultaneously. I think an OCD person would have a meltdown and just not drive the car

My point is, is it really that big a deal? When I bought the one and only new car I've ever had I promptly drove it 300 miles straight. It only had 6 miles on it when it was picked up. Had 80k miles on the gears with some pretty good abuse before the axles got swapped and never had any problems. I've had other gears get noisy in the first 10 miles. If done right, i don't think break-in is as big a deal as some people say. Nevermind the fact that I've never heard anyone agree on a break-in procedure.

If you really wanna do the break-in, get someone to tow/flat tow you down(with the rear on the dolly) and run trails all weekend. They'll be broken in by the end of the weekend. Hopefuly they won't be just broken

I guess when I had my first set of gears done (at a shop), the break-in instructions were a bit different. I drove something like 20miles around town after picking it up at the shop, packed my shit for the weekend, then did almost 400 miles interstate to go wheeling. gas was cheaper then. same set of gears I have in the rear to this day, several 10's of thousands of miles later.

matt kephart broke in his 22re by wheeling the piss out of it...pretty sure it hasnt had any problems

BadNewsCJ wrote:matt kephart broke in his 22re by wheeling the piss out of it...pretty sure it hasnt had any problems

thats how you get good ring seat

New vehicle engines come pre-broke in. The engine has to pass a run/spin test to be put in a vehicle. Transmissions and most other drive line have to pass similar tests.

Break-in on an axle is one of those things. It's the difference between doing something and doing it right. In offroading, I can see where most people wouldn't understand the break-in procedure. When done properly, it work hardens the forward face of the teeth on the ring and pinion, promoting longer life and improved wear. It also helps keep the temperature of the oil low until break-in is over so that the oil doesn't break down (breakin is supposed to be done on regular gear oil, not synthetic or synthetic blend) and loose its lubricity during break-in. The oil needs to be changed as soon as the break-in is over to remove any debris that may have come from installation and so that fresh oil that hasn't been subjected to the heat that the new bearings/gears create can take care of your freshly installed gears.

TerryD wrote:New vehicle engines come pre-broke in. The engine has to pass a run/spin test to be put in a vehicle. Transmissions and most other drive line have to pass similar tests.

Break-in on an axle is one of those things. It's the difference between doing something and doing it right. In offroading, I can see where most people wouldn't understand the break-in procedure. When done properly, it work hardens the forward face of the teeth on the ring and pinion, promoting longer life and improved wear. It also helps keep the temperature of the oil low until break-in is over so that the oil doesn't break down (breakin is supposed to be done on regular gear oil, not synthetic or synthetic blend) and loose its lubricity during break-in. The oil needs to be changed as soon as the break-in is over to remove any debris that may have come from installation and so that fresh oil that hasn't been subjected to the heat that the new bearings/gears create can take care of your freshly installed gears.

While we're talking about gears...... i've been told that in a d44 you will trash your pinon bearing if you don't run synthetic gear oil after the breakin period. Something to do with shape of the 44. Any truth?

Nope. No truth. Think about all the 44's that existed before synthetic oil.

On a rear 44 and LP front, the ring gear throws oil into the pinion galley and lubes the bearings as it should. On a HP front 44, you have to use the little cups around the bearings that they come with, this holds fluid in the bearing to keep them lubed. If you don't use the cups, then the bearings don't get lubed well enough, but that's installation error, as Dana put those cups there to correct this problem.

well got a slow start to the day but got this far: 15in-lb pinion pre-load (feels a bit tight but whatever) gotta check the pattern and set backlash tomorrow. Now I'm off to the state fair at calebs
lotsa work goin on:

my work benches:

freezing the pinion and cooked the pinion bearing at 275 for 20 min

fruit of the day:

mmm... premium breasts