Bronco Build

[Brett]

Yeah, it's a toy, but I need something that will be safe for my fam to ride in. If I don't seal up the rear, I feel like little Connor is going to inhale a lot of exhaust fumes. It was practically choking us out on the test drive.

I've found a used housing locally for $150, but I don't think I have the time, patience or desire to rebuild it. Yes, I'm lazy I guess.

Am currently looking for rebuilt D44. What other items will I need besides coil springs so I can try and put my budget together.

Brett

[alk1174]

I remembered something, my neighbor had an early 70s ford with a 9" and hp 44 it sat in his yard till the police came and he sold it to D&M last I knew it was still sitting there

[Brett]

Thanks Adam. I just called and some guy bought all of the D44s they had said he was going to put them on ebay. They had just bought 13 scouts w/ d44 and he baought all of those too. Anyboidy know who it was?

[Brett]

My thoughts on the latest ideas on this build to get a SAS in the bronco. I'm not looking at putting on any lift at this time. I want to trim the fender wells and run 35" Dunlop Tires I saw at Sam's Club for dirt cheap. Use existing coils in bronco. Maybe the guy who stripped all the D44s from D&M left the rest of the steering, radius arms, etc. Get some new stock shocks. I need to replace the factory rear shackle and hanger due to severe rust. I'm going to have to fab up some ghetto sh*t to seal up the tailgate. I'm going to re-gear the rear w/ 4.56s and install the lock-rite out of my f-150 for traction. Take a look at these numbers and please provide input. The grand total is what I am looking to spend to get this project of the ground.
So am I forgetting anything?

Budget

Purchase, tags, taxes, maint, etc. 850
D44 front axle w/shipping 1900
Front steering, radius arms etc. from salvage yard 250
(could it be had for this?)
Cheap Shocks 140
Spring Hanger (2) 100
Shackle (2) 70
tailgate (gonna have to get creative) 50
Tires (Dunlop Mud Rovers from Sam's Club in Bluefield) 625
Gears (rear w/ install kit and labor maybe) 450

Total $4435

[Steinberg]

D44 front axle w/shipping 1900
Front steering, radius arms etc. from salvage yard 250
(could it be had for this?)

$1900 for a 44?? Is that coming new from Currie or someplace? Makes me curious how a 60 prices out?

to run the solid axle you will likely need some lift in order to clear the engine crossmember. the existing TTB coils will be too stiff for a solid axle anyway.

For $250 or less I think you can do a custom setup with threaded DOM tube and GM 1-ton tierod ends like I've got on my ranger. I've got a hook-up for the threaded DOM on the cheap, and the TRE's can be had from the parts store. This also allows you to flip the tie-rod to the top of the steering arms for more clearance.

[Brett]

Got a D44 out of a '79 bronco tonight. Seems in decent condition minus drivers side bearings. I'm stoked. I need some input on where to start with a rebuild. Can anyone come over and help me assess the work needed?

Brett

[Leach]

Hell yea man, once my schedule opens Ill be glad to lend a hand where I can.

Leach

[Brett]

Hey guys:

I've removed the outers on the D44. Most everything seems to be junk. The inner bearing on the passenger side came out in pieces. How can I tell if the spindle is still any good? How can I tell if the cylindrical hub (what's the right term) is any good?

Brett

[currupt4130]

I'll sell you a built ass 44 that you shouldnt ever have a problem with for 1500. Its got chromoly axles, 5.13 gears, flat top knuckles and steering arms and a locker. Brand new brakes, bearings, gears, everything.

[Steinberg]

Hey guys:

I've removed the outers on the D44. Most everything seems to be junk. The inner bearing on the passenger side came out in pieces. How can I tell if the spindle is still any good? How can I tell if the cylindrical hub (what's the right term) is any good?

Brett

make sure the bearing surfaces are not gouged and that there's no heat-discoloration of the metal. the axle shaft bearings in the spindle die all the time, not necessarily a bad sign. if the bearing cups still press into the hub tightly then it should be fine, although I've found that the locking hub body does not seat completely (waterproof) in older banged up hubs. new hubs and rotors assembled with wheel studs are pretty cheap, and come with bearing cups already pressed in.

[Fonger]

Brett,

I haven't forgot about you. I'm gonna get you that pickle fork as soon as I can find it

[Brett]

Thanks eric. I think I'll just go ahead and get the hub/rotor assembly and a new spindle.

Adam. I'm not to that point yet, so don't worry about it. I'll bug you when I need them.

Brett

[Brett]

Hey:

I'm trying to finalize/order/scavenge parts needed for this build. Here's what I've got. Did I forget anything?

Suspension

shocks (6)
rear front spring hanger (2)
rear shackle (2)
rear shackle flip kit
rear spring bushings
new u bolts
shims for under springs to correct angle
drop trac bar bracket
trac bar
upper and lower front coil buckets
front coils (4 inchers)
coil tower (2)

Dana 44 (rebuild)

bolt, nut, washer to plug hole in top of diff./mount brake line bracket
ring and pinion 4.10 or 4.56
master install kit w/ axle tube seals
Detroit Tru Trac
ring gear bolts (10)
spindles
ball joints (2)
ujoint (2)
outer rebuild kit (locking hub and assemby, rotor, studs, spindle,
bearings, seals, etc.)
radius arm and rubber boots etc.
radius arm drop brackets
spindle studs/nuts (10)
gear oil

Ford 8.8

axle tube seals
ring gear bolts
ring and pinion
master install kit
lock right

Steering

drop pitman arm
left inner tire rod (right seems ok minus grease boot)
tire rod grease boots
steering arm



Brett

[Steinberg]

a master install kit should come with ring gear bolts.

unless you're going super-high, you will probably not need a drop pitman arm. if you keep the stock pitman arm, you can keep the tracbar bracket closer to the frame, which will ultimately be stronger and easier.

[Brett]

thanks eric. I'll definitely mock it up before I purchase the dropped arm.

Brett