Sinking Creek 4WD Association

For anyone who has ridden in my truck in the last 5 years, this is a big deal

(Click for video)

Also found some Ford B pillar speakers for free, nice to have surround sound for the first time:

Plan is to tow out the The Hammers this year, so I needed a space to sleep on the roadtrip out and the time on the Lakebed. Ryan found me a nice truck cap/camper shell on CL for $100, but it was 4 hours away in WV. I had put off going to get it until yesterday, but lo and behold I found one on the side of 460 that had free written on it

I like the way it looks, bought some $1.99 c-clamps at TSC, needs some fiberglass repair and a new rear window and it's ready for sleeping duty.




I also ordered this exhuast last night: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dep- ... gQodgwsCLg

The Mt Lake trip last weekend did my exhaust in, after half of it broke off earlier this year. Some P.O. straight piped it and it lasted at least 5 years, so can't complain. Ordered the no muffler kit to save $50 and because I liked the way it sounded straight piped before, hopefully the new downpipe doesn't push it over the obnoxiously loud threshold. One step closer to the performance additions I have been planning for years, lol.

Some pictures of the new exhaust. I am really pleased with it. Would recommend Diamond Eye. Super easy to install and super cheap!

The old downpipe. You can see why they call it a "pancake". No more cavitation at 1500-1800 RPM.


New downpipe, 3" diameter.


It is a two piece downpipe. I had to clearance the firewall with a sawzall and grinder a small amount. I clearanced my fingernail while I was at it.


It is a universal kit for all OBS cab lengths, so I cut the straight pipe (it is a non muffler kit) to length and welded it up in the basement. I had a spool of 309L stainless, but I couldn't find it. Unfortunately, that means it was welded with ER70. It looks pretty good and I clear coated the weld to hopefully keep it from rusting. I hate rusty exhaust.


It came with all the aluminized clamps I needed and fit perfectly in the stock hanger locations. That was a big relief at midnight on a Wednesday. I took the time to coat all the joints, grommets, and threads with anit-sieze so hopefully it won't be impossible to disassemble in a year's time.


I mitered the tip later on and did the final aiming. No 12" brodozer tip round here.


Now to give the underside a good bath to get rid of the couple months of soot buildup from the old exhaust.

My locker has been acting up recently. This past weekend, it bit the dust for good. I put the spider gears back in last night and am in the process of getting the Lockrite warrantied. I will probably sell the new ond and install a Grizzly before this year's snowfalls.

Click for video:

Looks like the locker teeth rounded off?

Also it looks like there are no chunks of metal missing from the Ring and Pinion, at least that is good!

Mr.WJ wrote:Looks like the locker teeth rounded off?

Also it looks like there are no chunks of metal missing from the Ring and Pinion, at least that is good!

Yep, everything was fine with the gearset. The teeth were pretty trapezoidal.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general- ... ocker.html
You may have seen these but I hadnt.

As far as I know the Aussie Locker (same manufactureer as the locker above) is the only lunchbox locker (toyota application) to have no reported failures unless something else broke first. And then most of the times a spring and pin set will fix it.

alk1174 wrote:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general- ... ocker.html
You may have seen these but I hadnt.

As far as I know the Aussie Locker (same manufactureer as the locker above) is the only lunchbox locker (toyota application) to have no reported failures unless something else broke first. And then most of the times a spring and pin set will fix it.

I wish I could run an Aussie, but the Lockright is the only lunchbox available for the 10.25". Wonder if you could run a D60 Torqmaster in the 10.25? They're both 35 spline lol.

The torqmaster locker seems like an improved design over the original aussie with breaking pins, but I feel like still has the same problem with all lunchboxes, which are teeth wearing down. Wouldnt be a bad idea for a trail rig, but having one in a daily would wear the teeth much quicker.

just realized how pretty it was when you bought it! btw if you ever want to sell it I got you

Quick update on the Ferd.

I had a problem coming back from Rausch (and maybe on the way up). The truck felt really slow and idled really rough when I was backing into my driveway on Sunday night. I started looking into it and found a handlful of issues all inter-related. After a couple weeks of troubleshooting, wrenching, and debating I ended up with new undervalve cover gaskets, harnesses and pig tails, a new glow plug, new 150cc Baby Swamp Injectors, a TS 6 position chip, and a new/used Injector Drive Module (I plan on taking it back out to do the 140V modification that I discovered). I also put on a new homebrew intake because my stock airbox didn't seal that well. That and a K&N drop in filter had me worried about FOD egress. My TS chip is at Swamps being reburned, atm. Excited to see how the truck feels on the 140 HP tune. Gauges will follow so I can see how it does non-intercooled. Once all this is done, and I put a WW2 compressor wheel on the turbo, it will be as built as I want it/ever planned on. It already feels like a whole new truck. Need to fix the fuel leak (again ) and replace the oil pan and the truck will be in tip-top shape

Definitely was the adventure getting the truck diagnosed, repaired, and back together. Glad I could help you with some of it!

Mr.WJ wrote:Definitely was the adventure getting the truck diagnosed, repaired, and back together. Glad I could help you with some of it!

You sat on the floor, mooched off his beer and threw the empty beer cans at him while he worked...

You're right Wong. He kept handing me Mopar parts and telling me I was shit and should take it to a dealership.

I had to replace my doorhandle, so I put on some spare Dynamat I bought from WJ on while I had the panel off. I think this is the 3rd time this year I've changed the trim panel clips



My gauges came in this week too. So I'm in the process of wiring sensors and power, and my TS switch a little bit each night. These Glowshift brand, MaxTow gauges are sweet. Seem to be really well made, match my stock interior lights, have digital readout and are electronic, not mechanical (boost is the big plus, less line for leaks as I was obviously not going to plumb fuel into the cab for a mechanical fuel pressure gauge). I got a triple pod with fuel pressure, boost, and EGT for less than $300 on Amazon. I wanted a 30 psi boost gauge but couldn't find this kit with a non vacuum graduation. Racetruck is almost done.

Some pictures from gauge install, I will post up finished pictures when I button it up tonight. I didn't realize these gauges are illuminated all the time, but they won't work in the daytime without running switched power from ignition instead of the headlight switch like I was planning. Otherwise, I like them so far. The fact they are electronic is a real big plus.

Fuel pressure sensor was easy enough:


Hard to tell, but I am running everything through the same spot on the firewall my trailer and aux power wiring was run


Sensor wire routing before I drill and tap the intake and exhaust manifolds


The ECU is behind the brake pedal assembly


I guess I forgot to take a picture with the TS6 installed, but it slides onto the PCB contacts in the picture. The truck is pretty fast now, but the clutch slips in the higher tunes pretty bad, so I guess something like a Southbend is next in line.


Sorry no funny metaphors or fluent prose here