Sinking Creek 4WD Association

First cut made in the floor to clock to t-case, drive shafts out, cross member almost out (one bolt frozen in a sleeve), almost ready to drop the t-case out. I've got to get a Holley rebuilt to swap for a NP241 and then I'll start putting it back together.

I think I'm going back with a cable shifter for the t-case since it'll be clocked up and I don't feel like messing with a custom linkage or anything. That means I'm going to have to find a place to mount the shifter. Might go with a console type shifter for the transmission too and just build a mount in front of the console. Have to see where things stand when the time comes. Money is an issue right now with needing a roof on the house but I'd like to make a spring run in it even if it's just up on Pott's again.

Picked up a NP241 today. I'm hoping to have it and the cocking ring in this weekend if it's nice and start working on a cross member. Does anyone but JB Fab make cable shifter for a NP241? I really don't feel like working out the linkage geometry with this clocked case if I can bolt in something fairly easily.

Got the t-case, clocking ring, and front shaft in for mock up. I managed to get the pieces the t-case mount will bolt to for the cross member knocked out and tacked together. I would have gotten more done today if I didn't have to drag all my stuff outside to work then put it up before dark. I have a few other projects filling the garage up right now that are eating up my fab space. Had to redo a few welds because the wind blew my shielding gas away a couple times. Had to time my welds with the gusts.

Anyways, my NP241 needs a chain and a tail shaft cone before it's going so I may swap the NP208 back in for the time being till I get the NP241 up to snuff. I wish I could afford the SYE and stuff for the NP241 but that's over a grand in parts to get it running that I just don't have to spare right now.

Hole in the floor:




New crossmember mocked up and about ready to weld:



Was hoping to get it welded up, holes drilled to attach it to the frame and trimmed to fit the frame contour this weekend but I doubt I'm motivated enough to work in sub-freezing temperatures.

I've still got to pull the NP241, set up the clocking ring on the NP208 and get it sealed up and installed. My NP241 needs a chain and has a cracked tail housing so I'm going to hold off using it till I can get a SYE and a new chain in it. Then I'll get 1350 CV shafts for it front and rear. That's just a grand I don't have free right now. This is all stuff I had wanted to have done last year before the Suburban crapped out on us.

I'm contemplating a full belly skid for it since I've gone this far. It wouldn't be hard to get on there once I get the exhaust done, but I don't know if I'm dedicated enough to pull it periodically and clean everything out.

TerryD wrote:Hole in the floor:

Then I'll get 1350 CV shafts for it front and rear. That's just a grand I don't have free right now.

Looking good Terry. You can pick up Super Duty front CV shafts for cheap on ebay/junk yard and they are 1350. Look for early to mid 2000's to get the spicer version (or look for spicer printed on the center yoke) as they started using chinese knockoffs a little later I believe.

Will the super duty shafts be flanged CVs?

TerryD wrote:Will the super duty shafts be flanged CVs?

Yes, at the T-case.

TerryD wrote:Will the super duty shafts be flanged CVs?

Yes. I'm not aware of any common non flanged 1350 cv's

Cool, thanks guys. Are there differences between the 5.4l, V10 and PSD shafts? The guy at Old Dominion only had one for the gassers.

TerryD wrote:Cool, thanks guys. Are there differences between the 5.4l, V10 and PSD shafts? The guy at Old Dominion only had one for the gassers.

I wouldn't think so. I can't remember what mine came out of, but I remember trying to get the guy to cross reference more than one year/make/model/engine for a larger selection. Those guys don't understand the concept of wanting just a part of a part and always try to tell you that asking for several year/make/model combos is futile, but it's not.

I believe they are all the same. The only possible difference I can think of is maybe length. The earlier years couldve been hooked to a dana 50 which may have a shorter pinion, but assuming you will retube it, I wouldn't worry about it.

Everythings kinda been on hold waiting for the snow to subside. I've got to make some pieces for my lawn tractor's snow blades if I get some time. I'm tired of climbing off the seat to angle the blades and it's acting up some starting. Anyways, been looking into the StuporDooty shafts some. I found one for parts I'm going to try to have shipped and another I'm going to try to grab when I can.

Thanks for the input on that!

Anyone in the club have a means to weld aluminum? I've been looking at an Ar tank and teflon liner for my Hobart but I'm getting mixed reviews online for how it'll work. I need to make up some brackets to mount my ladder rack on Helga so I can haul full sticks of metal and still be able to mount a camper top on it easily.

Cross member welding is about done. I've got to cap the tubes, enlarge the mounting holes and then clean and paint it. After that I'll be sticking back in the NP208 clocked all the way up and start building the floors back. I'm hoping to at least get the cross member done Friday if it's decent outside. I'd like to get the NP208 swapped in and sealed up so all I've got to do is stick the drive shafts back in to have it mostly moveable.

You trying to make it to Big Dogs?

I don't know if I'll make that or not. I've got a busy couple months going on and I'm trying to plug working on and paying for K5 stuff in around work on the house and other projects that are just really more pressing. I'm looking at a end of May finish right now. I'd like to do a couple trips this summer.