Sinking Creek 4WD Association

Looking good. Question though, why square tube for the link arms instead of round tube? What are they 2x2x.375?

jac6695 wrote:Looking good. Question though, why square tube for the link arms instead of round tube? What are they 2x2x.375?

Its 2x2x.25 and I used it because thats what I already have and also after some research alot of comp rigs and other guys are using the clayton kit which is made out of .25" square tube like mine so I figured it would suffice for now.

BlueDodgeRam wrote:What kind of FOAs are you going to get? If your trying to get some 16"x2.5" body c/os, and cant afford to wait, I can give you mine and whenever yours come in, just give them to me.

Mine are just their "medium" valving in compression and rebound. 1.5" mounting width and dual rate kits. no springs.

Thanks for the offer Peter, I'll do some more measuring and see if they will work. I was going to try and go with a set of 14s, but as of right now I'm playing around with using my 16" airshocks just because of time constraints.

edit: nevermind peter they'll be even longer at full bump than my current shocks but thanks alot for the offer. I'm just trying to use something with a little less length so I can reach full bump just before my tubes hit the frame without having to go through the hood

Got my tierod and track bar done today. I also got my track bar frame mount modified so I can have a couple more inches of uptravel than the first setup before my track bar hits the front differential. If it becomes too much of a problem and a limiting factor in my travel then I will just make a new one with a bend to get some additional clearance.


Here's my track bar bracket welded on after I moved it up. I finally got my welder set up with gas today and after using flux core and my stick welder this is amazingly easy, and I'm pretty happy with my welds for my first time ever using mig.


I had to cut my exhaust off at the down pipe because it was interfering with my upper links travel and the heat shield used to hit my traction bar in the rear.


Using some other shock mounts I have I was able to kind of mock up my airshocks today. I'm going to build some new mounts tomorrow that will allow me about two more inches of uptravel while leaving the axle where it currently is. It looks likeif all goes as planned the front is going to be 3 inches lower than the rear so I'm going to need to do some experimenting with the rear leaf pack.

Zach, what do the lower shock mounts look like? I was able to stuff some longer shocks under my 'yota by using mounts that went behind the axle instead of on top. It gets the center of the eye down to roughly the centerline of the axle tube.

Like these: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... p-210.html

Thanks for the idea Arya, i think those might work perfectly to get me some more shock showing

Spent all afternoon working on my transfer cases from hell. One case has bent shifter forks so it was jammed, and the other one had a busted set of planetaries. Now I can't figure out why my tail shaft is about a 1/4" too big to allow the housing to bolt on. If it turns out anything else is wrong i think i'm just going to buy this kit from poly that will let me run a 300.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jee ... 20743.html

Do a search on PBB before buying that kit. I'm not sure what trans you have, but I know with the AW4 there's a way to just run the sealed bearing and cut off a little bit of the output shaft. Total cost is like under $50 IIRC.

Do you need a D300? I have one with low-max 4:1's in it, stock outputs, and some generic twin-sticks. It's sitting under the bench, and I don't seem to be making any progress towards installing it in anything.

He needs some form of an adapter because the ax-5 output is 21 spline and the 300 is 23 spline input. Im not sure if you can swap the inputs on the 300 or change the trans output or if you have to use a coupler shaft and an adapter ring.

10-4.

Arya Ebrahimi wrote:Do you need a D300? I have one with low-max 4:1's in it, stock outputs, and some generic twin-sticks. It's sitting under the bench, and I don't seem to be making any progress towards installing it in anything.

Oh really? I may be interested in this

Arya Ebrahimi wrote:Do a search on PBB before buying that kit. I'm not sure what trans you have, but I know with the AW4 there's a way to just run the sealed bearing and cut off a little bit of the output shaft. Total cost is like under $50 IIRC.

Do you need a D300? I have one with low-max 4:1's in it, stock outputs, and some generic twin-sticks. It's sitting under the bench, and I don't seem to be making any progress towards installing it in anything.

I'd actually love to buy that if you really want to sell it now. PM me what you want if you do. And yea my ax5 is a crappy 21 spline output so i need that adapter, and the other adapter i figure i can use to flip it.

Well got the jeep to roller status today, and also hopefully figured out what i needed to fix my transfer case. So far I'm pretty happy with how everything is turning out. I'm going to need to lower the rear suspension about 2-3" to get it to look right with my front ride height. As it sits I will be running about 5" of uptravel. I also moved my upper link mount on the axle end to make it a little more triangulated. I also got my 3" body lift changed to just one inch.

Link mount moved over about 4"


Front Shot


With Body Lift

Without Body Lift