Sinking Creek 4WD Association

willhf1011 wrote:Yeap thats AJ. I do know him and am considering those, its just a little steep for my current budget haha. If it included rims we'd be talkin though I may still end up with those, i might try and beat him up a bit on the price.

yea no kidding, I could actually get my shit trail worthy again for the price tag on dem tars

driveshaft cores finally showed up. I'm gonna run one of these for the front probably with Tom Woods offset joints. They're single 1350's and I have a super duty front shaft that I'm gonna run for the rear which will be a 1350 cv at the tcase and 1350 single (possibly 1410 at some point) at the axle

Went 24 hours straight in the shop this past weekend and got the front to roller status. Decided to go 4 link front and clearance is at a premium. Redid the uppers like 10 time to get them where I want them. I'm probably going to cut the stock motor mounts off the frame and make some up for better clearance. The passenger side upper contacts the mount before full stuff and will hit the oil pan/block soon after that. I will probably make some motor mounts that lift the engine an inch of two and offset it towards the driver side an inch of so to get the clearance I need. Ultimately its looking like the front driveshaft should actually have to travel upwards at full stuff to reach the pinion, which would thrill me as far as keeping it low. We'll see though.

Ride height and clearance issues.






Passenger side upper and motor mount



Passenger side upper and motor



Driver side upper and motor mount.

Awesome job Will! That's turning out sick.

yeh that looks pretty tight but awesome build man it looks great

I'm thinking I'm probably just gonna trash the old motor mounts and build some custom ones that mounts from the top of the frame and move the engine up and over an inch or 2

major bling finally arrived.

Are your coilovers 16s? Yea i'd definitely change up the engine mounts, especially if the pictures of the links hitting are just at ride height. It looks like you'll have way more clearance to keep it low and still have plenty of uptravel if you do.

yeap, 2.5 16's

I could notch them way out but I think I'll still get into the motor a couple inches later. I'm planning to have 6 inches up travel front and rear so moving the engine up and over is probably the best option

What size tube did you use for your rear frame?

Its 2x2x.120. I think the material is plenty strong for the lack of stress my rear frame is gonna see, I'm not thrilled with my design though.

If I were doing it over I would probably try to switch to round tube, I think it would look better.

willhf1011 wrote:Its 2x2x.120. I think the material is plenty strong for the lack of stress my rear frame is gonna see, I'm not thrilled with my design though.

If I were doing it over I would probably try to switch to round tube, I think it would look better.

That is along the size I was thinking since the cage will help with strength and all. Tube would be nice but square is easier and cheaper

Jwlman wrote:
That is along the size I was thinking since the cage will help with strength and all. Tube would be nice but square is easier and cheaper

My thoughts exactly, thats why it is what it is. After all its just the frame and is going to be covered in mud and dirt anyway. Getting it to jog in under the tub was a bit tricky with the compound angles but it worked out alright by my reckoning.