Sinking Creek 4WD Association

I think I blew the fucking headgasket in the pickup

Don't know when or why, but I've got a milky residue in the oil cap, about twice as much "oil" normal, and the exhaust smells like coolant.

Has anyone here replaced the headgasket on a 22re? Jared? Benny? Any tips/tricks/pointers?

This will officially be my first time inside a motor. Am I stupid to pull the head, throw a new gasket on it, and run it? The motor's got 200k miles on it, and I just don't have the $$ right now for a top to bottom rebuild.

I've also got the 22RE from the F-toy project, but I have no idea of it's history or current status.

Thanks,

Ary

heres a write up on replacing a head gasket and timing chain. has some info and links that might be useful. http://www.yotatech.com/f116/22re-head- ... ics-88722/

done 2, I just lifted the head a couple of inches to throw the new gasket in there.

Also check the timming chain guides, they where then the plastic breaks then the chain slaps on metal. Good time to put some new guides in. There is a company that makes a metal reinforced guide. Dont remeber who right now.

The motor should be fine as long as you didnt over heat it badly and warp head, and didnt run coolant for engine oil for to long.

Good luck. Stinson

That's the problem. I have no idea when the gasket went. It's been running hot the past couple times I've run the truck, which has been every once in a while since February.

I think I might pull the thing and rebuild it. Just gotta find some money. I briefly considered an engine swap, since I kinda want a little more power, but then I'll start breaking things. Better to just make a torquey 22RE and call it good me thinks.

Breaking shit? How heavy is my truck and having 38s? How do I drive? TwoFace is probable 4200lb, maybe a little more or less depending on how big of a shit I take in the morning. The ring gear issues was bad setup, only thing I am worried about is bending rear axle shaft. The 3.4 stock puts out almost twice the power as a 22re. Quit being a pussy.

Yes Ary, I've done a headgasket on that motor before... The last one I did was a couple years ago on my black 85 4runner. It's pretty straight forward, you won't need any special tools or anything except for feeler gauges to adjust the valves when you put it back together. You can borrow mine if you don't have any. You should take your head to Baldwins after you get it off so they can check it out and mill it if neccesary. If the timing chain hasn't been done recently, you might as well go ahead and replace that along with the chain guides while its apart. I always replace the water pump and thermostat too when I do a headgasket. I think I have a timing cover gasket set for that engine somewhere in my garage that you can have. Just let me know if you run into any problems that I can help you out with.

Hey man Ive done about 10 of them,so if u need help or what not I will be glad to help..If u run that thing hot u need to check for cracks real good,they like to crack in between the cylinders and water jacket on the head and block..Also check the timing chain for wear if just a little wear I would replace..Because I have seen a chain break and bend a valve..there is a hidin bolt directly under the top timing chain gear (Its hidin)..I alway clean my block and head with a die grinder works great...Hollar at me if u have any questions!!

Alright, well that ordeal is officially over with.....I think.

I got it all wrapped up on Sunday and fired her up but she wouldn't idle. Well after 2 days of looking at it occasionally and messing with the timing like a mad man I realized that the 1/2" vacuum line from the air valve to the throttle body is kinda important. As soon as I hooked that up she idled perfectly.

The other issue I was having was the damn thing would run hot no matter what. When I did the HG I also replaced the water pump, rad hoses, t-stat, and had the rad dipped. After trying to "burp" the system for 2 days, I finally took the old t-stat, gutted it, and it runs fine now. I'm not sure what the deal was, the new t-stat was from Toyota and it opens in boiling water, but I couldn't get any sort of flow through the radiator to save my life.

All that's left now is to readjust the valves 'hot' and she should be done. I also got some work done on the flat bed and sliders, and with another day or two of work the rig should be ready for some 'wheelin.(just needs a driveshaft and a little more tube work)

Hopefully I'll get it down to school the first weekend after classes start, but we'll see.

Ary

drill out a couple 1/16" holes in the t-stat plate, or go to the toyota dealer and get a 165° rather than a 185°. you'll have to adjust the idle with the lower temperature t-stat, and you'll probably find that it is more finicky.