Sinking Creek 4WD Association

cylinders work, pads are new, adjusters work and it takes 2-3 seconds with my entire weight on the peddle to stop the 35s own rolling weight on jack stands (in neutral they'll stop ALMOST instantly). I'm gonna try a gravity bleed next, but last time they were bled it was a power bleed by a shop I believe. Any ideas? proportioning valve maybe? I'm gonna try and work on it wed or thurs when I'm not high as shit; wisdom teeth come out in about 30 min but rausche is on sat morn and I'd like to have rear brakes for the trip

when you miss-match brake componets like between the Waggy stuff and the Cherokee stuff, the prop valve isn't doing its job properly. You may also need to up-grade the wheel cylinders to a larger size piston to increase the force they apply to the shoes. Remember, cherokees were designed for P215/75/15 tires.... 35's are a little larger than that

are they the original drums and are they worn out of spec?

have fun with the teeths. i had 4 removed on Monday, plus a half root canal thing that they cut the entire right side lower jaw apart to cut something outta something thats growing that shouldn't be there.

But it aint too bad, was wire wheeling paint off the buggy the same day, and will be tacking tabs on the back of it today.

TerryD wrote:when you miss-match brake componets like between the Waggy stuff and the Cherokee stuff, the prop valve isn't doing its job properly. You may also need to up-grade the wheel cylinders to a larger size piston to increase the force they apply to the shoes. Remember, cherokees were designed for P215/75/15 tires.... 35's are a little larger than that

funny thing is this happened before though with the 30, I took it apart then and the adjuster cable was broken so I replaced it and everything seemed ok. As for 35s vs 30s wouldn't you think they could stop their own weight though, not even the jeeps, it was up on jackstands and still took 2-3 sec to stop just the tires. Any suggestions for bigger wheel cylinders and or proportioning valve options? and I'm not throwing disks on that pos axle like some friends have suggested.

Steinberg wrote:are they the original drums and are they worn out of spec?

the drums were replaced about 20,000 mi ago, I'll have to check on specs though

Leach wrote:have fun with the teeths. i had 4 removed on Monday, plus a half root canal thing that they cut the entire right side lower jaw apart to cut something outta something thats growing that shouldn't be there.

But it aint too bad, was wire wheeling paint off the buggy the same day, and will be tacking tabs on the back of it today.

yea actually I feel fine, I felt drunk for a while, couldnt feel half my face till about an hour ago, and I was spitting blood for about 5 hrs, but now I'm just taking hydrocodone for fun

[quote="shmoken875funny thing is this happened before though with the 30, I took it apart then and the adjuster cable was broken so I replaced it and everything seemed ok. As for 35s vs 30s wouldn't you think they could stop their own weight though, not even the jeeps, it was up on jackstands and still took 2-3 sec to stop just the tires. Any suggestions for bigger wheel cylinders and or proportioning valve options? and I'm not throwing disks on that pos axle like some friends have suggested.[/quote]

well, then adjust up your rear shoes and try it again. proper shoe adjustment is done with the vehicle on stands, and in neutral. reach through the hoes in the back plates that have the little rubber plug in them. turn the adjusters till you cannot spin the tire by hand. repeat on the other side and you're ready to go. in personal experience, drum brake adjusters wear-out over time and eventually stop working. so, if you don't want to do discs right now, I'd drop the $$ on new adjuster kits for it. other wise, just carry a brake spoon in your tool box and adjust it up when you notice they aren't performing. as for larger cylinders, a variety of vehicles from the 60's to present have used the 8.25 axle, its just a matter of searching through the catalog's and finding what you need. you can look at vehicles online at partsamerica.com, autozone.com, napa.com, ect. its all in the searching.

TerryD wrote:[quote="shmoken875funny thing is this happened before though with the 30, I took it apart then and the adjuster cable was broken so I replaced it and everything seemed ok. As for 35s vs 30s wouldn't you think they could stop their own weight though, not even the jeeps, it was up on jackstands and still took 2-3 sec to stop just the tires. Any suggestions for bigger wheel cylinders and or proportioning valve options? and I'm not throwing disks on that pos axle like some friends have suggested.

well, then adjust up your rear shoes and try it again. proper shoe adjustment is done with the vehicle on stands, and in neutral. reach through the hoes in the back plates that have the little rubber plug in them. turn the adjusters till you cannot spin the tire by hand. repeat on the other side and you're ready to go. in personal experience, drum brake adjusters wear-out over time and eventually stop working. so, if you don't want to do discs right now, I'd drop the $$ on new adjuster kits for it. other wise, just carry a brake spoon in your tool box and adjust it up when you notice they aren't performing. as for larger cylinders, a variety of vehicles from the 60's to present have used the 8.25 axle, its just a matter of searching through the catalog's and finding what you need. you can look at vehicles online at partsamerica.com, autozone.com, napa.com, ect. its all in the searching.[/quote]
gotcha, I'll try re-adjusting again ans see where that takes me

well, then adjust up your rear shoes and try it again. proper shoe adjustment is done with the vehicle on stands, and in neutral. reach through the hoes in the back plates that have the little rubber plug in them. turn the adjusters till you cannot spin the tire by hand. repeat on the other side and you're ready to go. in personal experience, drum brake adjusters wear-out over time and eventually stop working. so, if you don't want to do discs right now, I'd drop the $$ on new adjuster kits for it. other wise, just carry a brake spoon in your tool box and adjust it up when you notice they aren't performing. as for larger cylinders, a variety of vehicles from the 60's to present have used the 8.25 axle, its just a matter of searching through the catalog's and finding what you need. you can look at vehicles online at partsamerica.com, autozone.com, napa.com, ect. its all in the searching.

Good advise, just use caution adjusting the rear shoes.....if you go to tight with them they may drag to much and over heat causing them to expand and lock up.