Sinking Creek 4WD Association

ok...here is the deal....i came across a 83 yota P/U for pretty much free (just had to pay gas for dude towing it to the house + a case of BL) and decided to tear it down and build a buggy out of it...so here are the plans:

Chassis: Hendrix Ftoy or Hendrix chassis
Engine: completely rebuilt and bored 22R on 'pane
Axles: 8" yota with chromo axles, spools (welded), drive flanges
Steering: HighSteer with full hydro
Brakes: Discs on all 4 corners
Tires: 37 krawlers (maybe...might go 4D's)
Suspension: 4 link front and rear w/ airshocks

the plan is to have this done in 2-3 years, mainly because i am in school and am piss broke...so the only time that i can work on it is on breaks when/if i actually have the money....this is my first build up of this magnitude so im learning alot of shit as i go....any and all comments are welcome...i am far from an expert in anything, so let me know if i fuck something up.

on to pics....

83 yota teardown....sort of

as she sits now....



she looks so lonely with no axles



rear diff...blurry



more rear diff



i think the pinion nut might be a little loose



mud and water make a great lubricant



pinion



pinion



unnedded parts pile.......if you see something you want...holler my way



housing



anyone want some SA rotors for cheap?



shit



parts in the washer



more parts



spindles and hubs and knuckles...hubs and knuckles are for sale



is it bad if birfs make me sexually aroused?



green grease is awesome



parts pile....ubolts, lift blocks, drums, stock steering arms and 63" chevies...buy them...you need them :D



housing



mower deck not for sale



stock rears....for sale also...and no...i didnt put the springs on the jackstands ...dat shit is crazy



ladders are cool



my grinder monkey



hard to tell because i suck with a camera...but all of the welds on the spiders are broken



best $100 investment yet



after seing this....i promptly held a lighter to the opening in the can...i was disappointed






some things i have learned:

dont trust a redneck to weld a diff...it will break
rear axles are useless without splines
rear axle bearings help
dont pack the knuckl to the top with general purpose grease....or any grease for that matter
if its a free truck....its a pile of shit

Fawking right man, Ill be around school long to see this thing done the way I'm going now . If ya evern need a hand wrenching next semester I should be back up in the area and always game to help. Especially since there isnt any IFS crap to grind off up front. Great looking project though, and yes "is it bad I get aroused by brifields" is a problem, unless they are cryo'd/chromo'd. Goodluck again and great start.

Leach

The General wrote:Fawking right man, Ill be around school long to see this thing done the way I'm going now . If ya evern need a hand wrenching next semester I should be back up in the area and always game to help. Especially since there isnt any IFS crap to grind off up front. Great looking project though, and yes "is it bad I get aroused by brifields" is a problem, unless they are cryo'd/chromo'd. Goodluck again and great start.

Leach

:werd: once i figure out a place to keep it, itll be up here at school with me...and when its up here, ill give you a holler....can always use an extra set of hands :D

UPDATE JUNE 06

This is jack...he is californian



this is jack being my grinder monkey notice the high quality work table :o



mmmm...red



lots of red



this is jacks ass and our work table



work area is a little cluttered (4' x 8') :o



i spy parts :o

UPDATE August 06

OMG...like..spindles and rotors that werent there before!!1

vented LC rotors to go with the new-to-me IFS calipers from Ary (gonna be using the stock front calipers and rotors for the rear disc setup.



new gaskets, RTV, and mounted spindles



it has an erection



Mom says: Always double up on your nuts!

And to think I was gonna see some real progress......

Instead your just painting more parts red haha.

Leach

Yo if you need someone to grind some shit or wrench for a while hit me up....

somethingbroke wrote:Yo if you need someone to grind some shit or wrench for a while hit me up....

ive got two axle housings and tow third housings that need to be drilled, cut, cleaned, ground, and painted

wanna be my grinder monkey?

two housings.....yeeeaaa no thanks

My ears owuld be ringing for days even with plugs

somethingbroke wrote:two housings.....yeeeaaa no thanks

My ears owuld be ringing for days even with plugs

ear plugs? you dont need no stinkin ear plugs

you dont need no stinkin shiny housings either

somethingbroke wrote:you dont need no stinkin shiny housings either

but like...they wont match my awesome knuckles and calipers

Your gonna need alot more than a grinding wheel and hopes and wishes to make those housings look anything like those pimped out calipers.

Think Gold paint...it'll match the new copenhagen Straight can, red and gold, cant beat that.

Leach

i got a 83 toyota pickup that im trying to get up here. its already sittin on 36" tsl sxs. AND ITS CAMO . just need a trailer and a tow rig. im not trustin my dodge's automatic tranny.

Update: Sept 5 2006

got a little work done to the axles this weekend / week

cliffs: cleaned all the shit off the housings and replaced the stock third member shit-studs with 3/8ths bolts...


Time:
2 hours

needed:
ten 3/8 x 1.5" grade 8 bolts
ten locking washers
ten 3/8 nuts
basic hand tools
grinder w/ cutoff disc and grinding disc
welder

nice to have but not necessary:
stud extractor / installer
hot tank for cleaning all the shit out of the housings (oil and grease does burn :o )


on to the few pics i have...


it is common for the stock studs to pull out of the housing thus wreaking havoc on just about every component of your driveline from the pinion back...repleace thos bitches with 3/8 grade 8 bolts, lock washers, nuts.

first remove the old and busted studs (i highly suggest using a stud extractor / installer as it makes short work of them).


chock a 3/8ths bit in the drill



drill them bitches out!! do take care to actually drill straight through the holes



stock stud beside a 3/8 bolt



stock vs 3/8



put them bitches in!!



this is where i took a break for the night to continue in the shop back home...all of this can be done with access to a welder and a grinder...which i dont have locally.


next cut off the paper cover for the diff...its easiest to weld the bolts in from the backside of the housing...



clean up the holes with a grinder and prep them for welding...be sure to get all the grease out of the housing as it burns readily (ask me how i know )



this tab was in the way and would not let the bolt sit all the way down on the housing...a grinder makes short work of it....



tab clearenced....


here is where you need to tack the bolts in place. do be sure to have a flat edge of the bolt towards the inside so the 3rd will clear it!!!!!

i missed some pics FYI....

take the third housing and drill it out using a 13/32 drill bit...that extra space for the 3/8 bolt makes putting the third in alot easier when you are done!!!

bolt up the third and burn thos bolts in!!!

third removed and bolts welded in...



replace paper cover and weld it back on...



shitty pic of the welds



third bolted on and cover welded back on...all done!!!





next thing i did was to clean up the housings a little bit....torch and grinder made short work of it....

i will say this...its not entirely necessary to completely clean out all the goo from the housing...yes it will get hot and yes it will smoke and likely catch on fire ( as me how i know )....i will say that it isnt safe to leave grease and oil in the housing and use a torch on it...but it isnt completely necessary to clean that shit out...

rear housing after the torch...



front before the torch...



more pics of the housings when they are finished here in a couple of days...still need to hit both with the grinder

thats all folks!!!