Sinking Creek 4WD Association

Long story short I was throwing Drive and reverse for 3 straight minutes in the mud-hole beyond the wash out during our hello newbies ride; started to hear some bearing whine over the next week; pretty much stopped driving it and finally checked this weekend and the rear pinion has a bit of play now .

So my options before Harlan:
1) Try to keep from driving until Harlan and just re-load the pinion and try to make it last till winter.
2) Put new bearings in the 8.25 (don't really want to since I was gonna put the 9" in)
3) I can have my buddy bring my 9" down and try to build it in Calebs basement before Harlan.

Now as for #3 I already have: The 9" housing, C7AW E center section (2.89 carrier), 31 spline Detroit (with 2.89" bearings), shafts, Daytona 4.56s, aftermarket only rebuild kit (3.25" bearings for aftermarket cases like strange).

Now here's where I need my man Terry [or anybody else]: As far as I can understand I can use the gears and pinion bearings in my C7AW E "3rd" as long as I get a Daytona pinion support and Daytona yoke. I obviously can't use the kits 3.25" carrier bearings but luckily the Detroit came with newer 2.89" carrier bearings on it.

I posted this thread a while back and did get 1 response:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... highlight=

I would still need to figure out the brakes (definitely want to do disks) and get a Daytona yoke and pinion support (I've seen aluminum and iron, which is better?) and axle shaft bearings. But other wise I think I have everything covered.......


So what should I do? Gimme some thoughts/advice

in/out play in the pinion of the 8.25?

As far as the 9" goes, I'm not up to snuff on the daytona stuff. I'd get the iron pinion support and go with that. As for brakes, I'd set up the drum stuff for now and go disc later on down the road. HOWEVER, you can adapt 8.8 brakes from an Explorer to the 9" from what I've read.

TerryD wrote:in/out play in the pinion of the 8.25?

As far as the 9" goes, I'm not up to snuff on the daytona stuff. I'd get the iron pinion support and go with that. As for brakes, I'd set up the drum stuff for now and go disc later on down the road. HOWEVER, you can adapt 8.8 brakes from an Explorer to the 9" from what I've read.

yea little bit of side to side, little bit of in and out, talking like 1/32 to 1/16" max but I know that's too much. Don't want to look at the gears I've probably put 15-20 miles on the jeep since hearing the whine.

I had seen this aluminum support: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthre ... ht=daytona and it looked like a good deal, but I'm not familiar enough either to make a judgment on which is best

I had looked at the 8.8 disc swap but it seems expensive. Was either going to try to do a GM caliper (because thats what I have up front and seems to be typical with 9" disc kits) set up or try to use my old Dana 30 calipers that I have at home. And either modify some GM caliper brackets (at home) or do some from scratch with some 1/4" plate I have.

But in the interest of time I may just go with a kit, I'd rather just do the disks to begin with while its all apart anyways.

Thanks for the input I'm probably gonna come callin your name again if I go this route

I say get the 9" done. Don't waste your time on the 8.25 if you're just gonna take it out anyway. This is all assuming you still have your DD XJ to keep the broken one off the road.

hklvette wrote:I say get the 9" done. Don't waste your time on the 8.25 if you're just gonna take it out anyway. This is all assuming you still have your DD XJ to keep the broken one off the road.

its at home lol, may just make the trip down here though

What bolt pattern are you again? I thought you went to 6 lug or 5 on 5.5?

Jwlman wrote:What bolt pattern are you again? I thought you went to 6 lug or 5 on 5.5?

waggy front with ford 5 on 5.5 hubs, and 5 on 4.5 to 5.5 adapters in the rear

If I were you I would just use the same calipers as front and weld on some brackets. I assume you don't care about your parking brake based on the condition of your current one lol. That way all you need to do is slip on a disk that's the right bolt pattern and weld it up. and if your feeling really spiffy you can put 2 calipers per disk brake

Oh and make a write up so its easier when I do it

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121194
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229934

Or a kit

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-223 ... _studs.htm

Jwlman wrote:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121194
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=229934

Or a kit

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-223 ... _studs.htm

thanks man, I've actually looked at all 3 of those, I think I'm gonna call bronco in the morning and see if they can get me the brake brackets faster than the advertised 2 weeks

well I voted for building the 9 and if I can't get it done, I'll just run the 8.25

This morning I ordered set 20 wheel bearings and the disc conversion from Bronco Graveyard and a nodular pinion support, 1310 daytona yoke and crush sleeve eliminator from Quick Performance Racecars.

All should be here between Friday and Monday and hopefully I can get my buddy to bring the axle down this Friday. Should just need chevy 3/4 ton calipers, anybody got some?

I just voted put new bearings in the 8.25

You know you need to pre-load the pinion bearings to where it takes a certain amount of torque to roatate the pinion. Then follow the break in procedures to the T to make it last. The reasons for the break in is more for heat disapation from the bearings wearing themselves in. You can look up the value online I feel sure. Remember, follow the break in to the T if you want this thing to last.

TerryD wrote:You know you need to pre-load the pinion bearings to where it takes a certain amount of torque to roatate the pinion. Then follow the break in procedures to the T to make it last. The reasons for the break in is more for heat disapation from the bearings wearing themselves in. You can look up the value online I feel sure. Remember, follow the break in to the T if you want this thing to last.

crap you just made me remember I don't have access to an low in-lbs torque wrench down here, I normally just borrow my neighbors at home (I think the 8.25 was like 14 in-lbs). I was just discussing with nick how this break in is gonna be tough to accomplish. I was OK with the 8.25 cause I had a 20mi daily 45mph commute, but somehow I have to drive this thing 500ish miles before hauling ass down 81. I can't remember what the max time/distance at highway speed is during break-in, I feel like its 20 min or 20 miles or something.

I put the 4.56s in the 8.25 at the end of freshman year and they have lasted over 25,000mi, didn't start wining until that mudhole.........then there was quite a noticeable whine