Sinking Creek 4WD Association

Does anybody know what gears i would have in my stock s10 blazer or at least where i find this info out.

it can be found on lots of different site. need some more info. What year? 4.3 vortec? also you should be able to find it on the vin sticker either under the hood or on the door jam. you can look up your vin and that should also tell you.

GM uses 3.73 in their half ton and smaller trucks. I would be willing to bet thats what you have too.

rotate a tire and count your d-shaft

It should be either 3.08(GU4) or 3.42(GU6). I don't know about yours, but on many GM vehicles there is all kinds of information in the glovebox, and you should be able to find either one of the codes i posted. I would still double check by the old count how many times your drive shaft turns in one revolution of your tire just to make sure you know the correct ratio before you go to replace anything.

GM used everything from 3.08's to 4.10's in their half tons in the past 20 years all varying depending on drive train configuration and packages.

Alec is correct though in that 3.73s are very common.

There will be a code on the info sticker that you can cross. thats the easiest way to be sure other than popping the cover and counting

Edit: Zach beat me to that one

what year is it? cuz what I just said applies to new stuff (like 97 on up) Eff it here,
* 1997 Chevy S10 Blazer, with 4x4, without option "ZR2", with a front carrier with a 3.73 gear ratio (option code "GT4")
* 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Chevy S10 Blazer, without option "ZR2", with a front carrier with a 3.73 gear ratio (option code "GT4")
* 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005 Chevy S10 Blazer, with option "ZR2" and "NP8", with a front carrier with a 3.73 gear ratio (option code "GT4")

that might help i dunno

Heres the full list of the codes.

http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog ... rolet.html

it is a 1991 with the 4.3 gen 1 v-6 not the vortec and ill check the code list in the glove box since i know what they mean now.

just pulled a new front and rear out of the junkyard with 4.11's yesterday and they should bolt right i just wanted to know what i should check the ring and pinion gears on both look fine but is there anything else i need to do other than fill them back up with fluid and bolt in ?

That's great to hear John. You may want to check the seals on the axles, and make sure everything is torqued correctly in the diffs.

I'd replace the seals (remember to put a thin layer of grease between the lips on the seal to lubricate it) and if it were me, I'd plug a mini spool in that rear diff. They do not cost must from somewhere like Summit or Jegs and with the IFS, will greatly increase the abilities of your rig. You have a spare set of shafts now, why not right?

I'd replace the seals (remember to put a thin layer of grease between the lips on the seal to lubricate it) and if it were me, I'd plug a mini spool in that rear diff.

-- cleaned up the rear today and i stripped the bolt that holds my axles in place so replacing the seals just got a lot harder any ideas?
the rear had also factory positive traction is that like a mini spool?
also when i pulled the front apart one side of the housing was cracked so im gonna try to pull out another one tomorrow but i did take the gears out to match

GM factory Gov-Loc's do not work like you think they do. You have to have great finesse and know exactly how they operate to go offroading with one and have it live. I've got a few carriers for 10 bolts laying around. I'll have to see what the gear ratio split is and what spline axles you have, but I think we can work with it ok. Did you break the bolt or strip the threads that holds the centerpin in place?

A mini-spool (or spool for that matter) locks both rear tires together all the time. They will ALWAYS travel at the same speed. It's a little hard on tires for a DD and can get interesting in the snow/ice, but they are THE way to go for a rear traction aid IMHO.

As for the front, you should be able to just plug those gears into your housing if you are careful. It'll last long enough on used bearings for you to decide to ditch the IFS and swap in a D30 or D44 solid axle. I've run almost two years on bearings I miss-matched to get the 3.55's in my XJ. I do not recommend it to many people because of the "you said it would work fine yada yada yada" bs I'll get from them if (when) it fails, but for what you are doing, I think it'd be ok.

alright thanks im trying to get every thing back together and back to blacksburg and i only striped the bolt head holding the center pin in place so everything will hold together fine i was gonna pull the axles and replace the seals and swap my backing plates and break components but since i cant im just gonna put it together for now and do some more work on it over christmas break when i have more time