Sinking Creek 4WD Association

I've been looking into options for a different rear axle setup and I'm considering a D60. While I love my 9", it's just not holding up. I've either bent or twisted 3 different shafts, broken the cross-pin, cracked the carrier, and now I think the housing is bent(can't keep axle seals in it.)

So, I'm thinking about going with a rear D60 out of a '78-79 F-250. The things I'm concerned about is the loss of ground clearance and weight. Does anyone know the axle center line to bottom dimension on a D60? Also looking for the weight of a rear D60.

If I don't go with a full-float axle I'm going to have to get a new heavy duty 9" housing, 35sp shafts and full spool, which would cost nearly $1000.

Any info would be great.

hey matt, I dont know any dimensions off the top of my head but a 60 with a spool is alot cheaper than a $1000 9 in. I think the cost savings and added strength that you would get you far outweigh the loss of an inch or so of ground clearance...

Edit: I think with the engine in your truck weight isnt a huge issue either. I guess it all boils down to more money to equalize strength and minimize weight or saving $700 dollars and essentially adding the weight of driving with a passenger all of the time. (9 in= 200lbs. while a Dana 60 with discs is prob around 400lbs.)

GM 14 bolt/thread.

jac6695 wrote:GM 14 bolt/thread.

yeah thats the end all be all in OEM rear axle strength but thats the worse end of the spectrum for both weight and ground clearance.

BadAssEddie wrote:

jac6695 wrote:GM 14 bolt/thread.

yeah thats the end all be all in OEM rear axle strength but thats the worse end of the spectrum for both weight and ground clearance.

But he's not going to go over 36" tall tires and a 14bolt is just a land anchor on anything less than 40's.

If you ditch the drums on a 60 and go with discs, it will drop like 50-60 pounds I would guess. Ready to go, with drums, I'd put a 60 between 400-500 lbs ground clearance isn't great but it can be shaved.

I agree on the 14 bolt. it can be shaved to almost the clearance of a 44 depending on how far you want to go (so can the 60) and is absurdly strong in stock form.

TerryD wrote:

BadAssEddie wrote:

jac6695 wrote:GM 14 bolt/thread.

yeah thats the end all be all in OEM rear axle strength but thats the worse end of the spectrum for both weight and ground clearance.

But he's not going to go over 36" tall tires and a 14bolt is just a land anchor on anything less than 40's.

Thats what im saying.

willhf1011 wrote:If you ditch the drums on a 60 and go with discs, it will drop like 50-60 pounds I would guess. Ready to go, with drums, I'd put a 60 between 400-500 lbs ground clearance isn't great but it can be shaved.

I agree on the 14 bolt. it can be shaved to almost the clearance of a 44 depending on how far you want to go (so can the 60) and is absurdly strong in stock form.

is the loss in an inch of ground clearance going to a 60 worth all the work involved with shaving a 14 bolt plus the added strength he doesnt need? the 60 is so appealing because of its bolt in ability with low cost and added strength over the 9in. These overwhelm any loss in clearnce in my opinion...

You can also gain an easy inch on the sixty by just grinding down the bottom lip to make it smooth so you'll slide on it instead of getting hung up.

The difference in clearance between the 14 bolt and 60 is marginal and to shave the 14 to equal clearance would require no more work than just cutting the bottom lip. I think either would work well in his application, the only difference being that the 14 bolt will be substantially stronger, easier to regear, option for pinion guard, etc

Yes, I do know the 14 bolt is an anchor with that nasty bottom lip. Shave it a bit, and don't be afraid to drag it across. It won't break. As mentioned, a 12 year old with one eye can successfully regear a 14 bolt in about 2 hours with a pair of vise grips, and gears and a Detroit locker can picked up at Sheetz very cheap.

Thanks for all the replies. Right now I'm only considering a D60 or building a new 9". A 14-bolt is just way more axle than I need. I had a free 10.25 that I could have used, but didn't due to it's size. I have no problem re-gearing dana axles, so that's not an issue either. I can pick up a good D60 for about $200, but it would also mean new 8-lug hubs, etc on the front end, and new wheels and tires (16" 8-lug rims, which I do have.)

My ultimate solution would be a full-float 35 spline 9", but that's getting into big $$$.

Anyways, I'm mostly just looking for some numbers on ground clearance of a D 60 housing vs a 9" housing, stock for stock. Weight is also a big concern, I've worked really hard to keep this truck as light as possible, so 100-200lbs more would be too much. It's mostly the full-float that I'm after, ring-gear and axle shaft strength shouldn't be an issue. Keep the info coming.

Well Grubb, it looks to me that you either gotta build a 9 and be happy or get a 60 and not be happy. I'd say go for it, it will be money well spent and you will be more content for it.

Edit: I sent you a PM, I got an error so Idk if it worked or not.

Also, Will and I were talking and we decided that the work and money involved with a 60 swap would be comparable to getting a built 9. New tires and 44 parts would add up also. Get the 9.

Well I guess I'll build the 9".

Does anyone trust Yukon shafts? I have heard lots of bad stuff about them, but they are only $345.00 for a set of 35sp 9" shafts, vs $450 for Mosers. I know the Mosers will be good, but if the yukons will hold up I would rather save some coin. Thoughts?