Sinking Creek 4WD Association

Here it is,



Some of you have seen it, I like taking it on snow runs. Decent shape, some rust in the wheel well openings, but nothing that shouldn't be cut out.

Plans:

SAS using a front Waggy D44
Ford early Bronco 9" rear
Doubled Toyota transfer cases
35-36" tire
Cross-over steering

This is going to be a slow build, I am gonna start with rebuilding the axles and re-gearing them, thinking 4.88.

I will update when progress is made.

I like

The family rig.. Sweet

Matt612 wrote:The family rig.. Sweet

This is exactly what its going to be.

I took the steering knuckles off of the Chevy D44 I was using on the CJ before I found my D60. The knuckles came from an old J10 pickup and I need these knuckles because the passenger side has a Parts Mike hi-steer arm already mounted for cross over steering and they will work nicely on the Waggy front end I am planning to use.



I have taken apart the EB 9" rear end. I am planning on running 4.88s with a spool and 31 spline axles (28 spline from the factory) with disk brakes. No pics, but once I clean up the housing I will post some up.

Found something interest when I disassembled the third member from the 9". The spider gears.



This was a limited slip/trac lok rear end at one time. I hadn't ever broken one down before, really cool setup with the third pinion bearing and how the carrier adjustment works. It is now empty until I come up with the coin to fill it with 4.86 gears and a spool.



For now, I gonna be working on getting the knuckles installed on the D44 and gutting it.

Getting ready to swap out the IFS for the narrowed D44 I've been working on and I am trying to figure out the last part on my steering.

Thanks Adam for the pitman arm, I will get it back to you ASAP. I don't think I'm going to try and modify a stock arm to run the Chevy TRE. I am going to purchase an arm from WFO, East Coast Gear Supply or some other supplier that has the correct tapper. My question is:

What is the advantage to a flat arm vs. the stock arm with the drop?
I will be running cross over steering.

With a flat arm you can get it up real tight to the frame giving you more up travel and allowing you to keep the truck low. The ifs yota frames are pretty flat so you have to work hard to keep the truck low and still have up travel.

Do some research into keeping it low. The ifs swaps can get real tall real fast if you aren't actively trying to keep them low. Lots of people get done and realize how tall they are only to end up cutting and redoing things to bring them down.

alk1174 wrote:With a flat arm you can get it up real tight to the frame giving you more up travel and allowing you to keep the truck low. The ifs yota frames are pretty flat so you have to work hard to keep the truck low and still have up travel.

Do some research into keeping it low. The ifs swaps can get real tall real fast if you aren't actively trying to keep them low. Lots of people get done and realize how tall they are only to end up cutting and redoing things to bring them down.

Ok, Ill get the flat version.

To try and keep it low, the front spring mount is pretty much at the stock location and I am going to try some spring sliders from Liquid Iron Industries instead of a swing shackles. Also, I had to resort to using XJ springs because I didn't find Yota ones in time and the XJ springs came along as a good deal (thanks Brian). They seem pretty flat, just long.

We'll see how it all works out.

Some other things I have seen work well are going spring under and low steer as well as notching the frame to clear steering links. Got to watch out for the oil pan as well.