welders
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welders
I've kinda gotten interested in the possibility of buying a welder in the future for various projects, but don't really have a huge knowledge of different makes or options of welders. I understand some of the basic concepts behind Mig, Tig, and Stick welding but would like some imput as to what companies people like ect. Keeping a budget in mind im thinking in the 250-500 dollar range.
DD: 2003 GC Limited, 4.7L
Trail Rig: hmmm
Trail Rig: hmmm
It just my opinion but I would save and get the best you can afford. I am leary of inexpensive 110 volt mig setups they just dont seem to have the power to burn anything thick. But you can run one of these machines just about anywhere where as 220 volt outlets can be hard to come by. You can get an inexpensive stick machine but then welding thin stuff gets hard. I have a Miller 175 mig it runs on 220 volts and welds from 1/16 to 1/4 with ease. But it looks like this machine is on the outer limits of your price range without accessories. You are welcome to come by and take a look if you want sometime. There is a book you can get from lowes on welding that explains all types of welding and cutting and how to use each of the setups. I would do a lot of reading and researching before I bought anything.
if you want to bump your budget up to about 600 you can can an AC/DC Miller Thunderbolt....great stick welder. 200V. i have used one in the past numerous times and i will picking one up as soon as 600 bucks falls out of the sky into my lap.
but like Krantz said, get the best you can afford. skimping on tools isnt the best idea, expecially on welders.
one of the main things you will want to look at is the duty cycle. its the percentage of a 10 minute period that you can weld, continuously, without overloading the welder.
10% = 1 minute, let it cool for 9
30% = 3 minutes, let it cool for 7
etc etc
you want the highest duty cycle you can afford as it can be a hassle to weld with a < 30% cycle welder if you are doing anything extensive.
you can also look into smaller MIG and FluxCore welders....probably some 135 amp machines in your price range.
also factor into the cost electrodes / wire, welding helmet, gloves, jacket, slag hammer, and other things.
but like Krantz said, get the best you can afford. skimping on tools isnt the best idea, expecially on welders.
one of the main things you will want to look at is the duty cycle. its the percentage of a 10 minute period that you can weld, continuously, without overloading the welder.
10% = 1 minute, let it cool for 9
30% = 3 minutes, let it cool for 7
etc etc
you want the highest duty cycle you can afford as it can be a hassle to weld with a < 30% cycle welder if you are doing anything extensive.
you can also look into smaller MIG and FluxCore welders....probably some 135 amp machines in your price range.
also factor into the cost electrodes / wire, welding helmet, gloves, jacket, slag hammer, and other things.
if you're comfortable going with a stick welder, get the Lincoln AC225. It can be had at Lowes for about $250, and it's a proven machine. it's 220V, 50amp circuit, but I can run mine on a 30amp circuit and only trip the breaker once in a while.
if you wanna go wire-feed, I'd look for something on the order of 135amps from Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart (no personal experience with these, but all good brands). that will be about the biggest you can go on 120V and will probably be at or slightly above your max price range, without the gas kit for actual mig welding.
if you wanna go wire-feed, I'd look for something on the order of 135amps from Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart (no personal experience with these, but all good brands). that will be about the biggest you can go on 120V and will probably be at or slightly above your max price range, without the gas kit for actual mig welding.
The Rescue Ranger: in pieces and scattered about the yard.
I have a Lincoln Pro-mig 135, about $550 at Lowes I on flux-core it says it can do 1/4 inch, but I do not trust it. That is why I am buying a Millermatic 251. This week I hope.
92 Toyota pickup, 5VZFE, SAS, 30 splines, football cover, spooled and welded, 4.10s, SOS prototype rear disc brake conversion, soon to be Maryland inspected
- VerticalTRX
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I agree that a Lincoln 225AC would be the best bang for the buck. I have one that I've been using for years and its an excellent machine. I'm not sure how long this particular model has been around, but my uncle has one that looks like its at least 30-40 years old.
Its not as 'point and shoot' as a MIG, but once your good at it can be used for almost any welding that you might do on your rig. I've welded stuff as thin as 16ga sheet metal up to 1"+ thick plate.
Its not as 'point and shoot' as a MIG, but once your good at it can be used for almost any welding that you might do on your rig. I've welded stuff as thin as 16ga sheet metal up to 1"+ thick plate.
'79 F-150
'49 CJ-3A
'49 CJ-3A
thanks for all the input, i've actually only had experience using a stick welder, it sounds like something like a Lincoln 225 might be the way to go as far as the wallet goes, just requires a little more practice to get good welds, a good MIG welder seems to be a little more versatile as far as thin metal goes but i just want something thats gonna be able to weld tubing ect, any advice on different electrodes, masks, and other extras?also differences between the AC/DC model vs the AC.
DD: 2003 GC Limited, 4.7L
Trail Rig: hmmm
Trail Rig: hmmm
I would get an auto darkening mask for sure makes life a lot easier when trying to get things fit togethter and welded. I would also get one with an adjustable tint. I got a Jackson auto darkening for well under a 100 it works great but its not adjustable and I regret that now. The adjustables I have looked at start in the 125-150 range. Also a good pair of dark goggles are handy when trying to weld back in an area where you can get your head in to but not with a mask on this seems to happen way too often.
as far as electrodes go... for dirty metal and out of position welds i use a 6013 rod. its a fast freeze rod so its good for vert and horizontal welds. most position welds i use a 7018 rod.redtaco00 wrote:thanks for all the input, i've actually only had experience using a stick welder, it sounds like something like a Lincoln 225 might be the way to go as far as the wallet goes, just requires a little more practice to get good welds, a good MIG welder seems to be a little more versatile as far as thin metal goes but i just want something thats gonna be able to weld tubing ect, any advice on different electrodes, masks, and other extras?also differences between the AC/DC model vs the AC.
if you have the money for a better mask, get an auto darkening mask. the first time i used one, i vowed to never use anything else. great asset. makes starting easier as you can actually see what you are doing
- Billet Benny
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If you buy a stick machine to do tube work that definitely puts you into the "hack" category. Save money for a minimum 240V machine that can output 185 amps or don't even waste your money.. You're not sticking together yard art here but something much more critical. In today's time there's too many good options beyond a stick machine for truck work. If you can't fork out the coin for the necessary tool then don't even play.redtaco00 wrote:a good MIG welder seems to be a little more versatile as far as thin metal goes but i just want something thats gonna be able to weld tubing ect,
Benny
'98 Taco
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'05 Taco
'00 Cummins
- VerticalTRX
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I beg to differ on that. I've been welding for 11 years now and at one time I was certified in both MIG and Stick welding. As far as the weld itself goes, MIG may lay a nicer looking bead, but that’s about it. Full penetration is the mainstay of a strong weld and I feel that 100% penetration is easier to obtain with a stick welder. I run 6011 rods on AC for this reason, I know every weld I make has full penetration. While the 210+ amp MIG machines are capable of getting good penetration, their 110v counterparts often are not (he already established that 210amp MIGs are out of his budget.) I use my AC Stick welder for all my tube work, and while the welds may not look as good as MIG or TIG, they are every bit as strong, stronger in some cases. If you’re a good welder there is nothing 'hack' about using a Stick machine for tube work, or fabrication in general. Any welding process can be 'hack' if done wrong.Billet Benny wrote:If you buy a stick machine to do tube work that definitely puts you into the "hack" category. Save money for a minimum 240V machine that can output 185 amps or don't even waste your money.. You're not sticking together yard art here but something much more critical. In today's time there's too many good options beyond a stick machine for truck work. If you can't fork out the coin for the necessary tool then don't even play.redtaco00 wrote:a good MIG welder seems to be a little more versatile as far as thin metal goes but i just want something thats gonna be able to weld tubing ect,
I guess you would consider oxy/acc welding of sheet metal and aluminum to be hack as well?
'79 F-150
'49 CJ-3A
'49 CJ-3A