Sinking Creek 4WD Association

So after shopping around and talking endlessly about it, I've finally picked up a 2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ Unlimited (LJ). It's got 98k miles, 4" suspension lift on some pretty bald 31's, kicker speakers throughout/sub, hard top, soft top, Rampage frameless soft top, Bestop stubby front bumper, CB, and a pretty dope custom locking steel trunk cover.



I'll post more pictures in the morning when it's light out but this is it today after ripping the stupid bug guard off the hood and swapping out the hard top for the Rampage soft top. Tomorrow is emissions testing and dechroming the front end.

Before summer's up I plan on moving up to 33's (I'm looking at both Duratracs and KM2's - anybody have suggestions/experience?), installing a winch, and upgrading the exhaust (I'm torn between the Banks Power and Gibson catbacks). If anybody else has suggestions for stuff to do, I'm more than open to them.

I'll try to update this thread as I start tinkering.

Nice rig!!

If you do a 1.25 in. body lift on top of that 4 in. suspension you can easily run 35's with no issues, that's the setup I have.


I run the Banks SS cat-back exhaust. It has a nice sound that is not overwhelming or deafening even at highway speeds, no annoying droning. Does it offer any performance, probably, but not seat of the pants noticeable. But it sounds great.

Looking forward to the build!

Thanks! I'm really looking forward to it too. What all would going to 35's entail? I know I'd need a new tire carrier and that body lift, but what else would I need to invest in? From everything I've read it takes $$$$$ to run 35's correctly (forgive me if this is common knowledge, I'm new to TJ's). Id love to run 35's, I'm just concerned about money

grubb wrote:Thanks! I'm really looking forward to it too. What all would going to 35's entail? I know I'd need a new tire carrier and that body lift, but what else would I need to invest in? From everything I've read it takes $$$$$ to run 35's correctly (forgive me if this is common knowledge, I'm new to TJ's). Id love to run 35's, I'm just concerned about money

Hey congrats on finally getting your LJ!!!
Take a grinder to your fenders, it costs free.99

Also, as far as the tires, duratracs and KM2s are both really good options. I say that for budget reasons, duratracs are the best bang for the buck. They are quite a bit cheaper than the KM2s and they perform better on snow and ice than the KM2s.

grubb wrote:Thanks! I'm really looking forward to it too. What all would going to 35's entail? I know I'd need a new tire carrier and that body lift, but what else would I need to invest in? From everything I've read it takes $$$$$ to run 35's correctly (forgive me if this is common knowledge, I'm new to TJ's). Id love to run 35's, I'm just concerned about money

As far as money goes... you will never have enough when it comes to a Jeep. You just have to pick and choose carefully where to spend it.

As far as the bigger tires thing goes, 1st think that this next set of tires you get are going to be around for a while so don't rush into it. also consider what type of wheeling you plan on doing, and what axle is under the front. You will probably need different rims too. Depends on the backspacing that you have currently.

If you just plan on light wheeling on forest roads around here, 33's are plenty adequate. If you want to go places like Big Dogs and Rausch, you will want 35's. Ultimately though it is up to you.

Quick update:



Dechromed the front end, moved some lights around and rewired the fog lights (the wires had frayed halfway through). I'll post some more pictures tomorrow - I also made a tire carrier CB antenna mount for the firestick (I'm not a huge fan of the whip on the front), installed new body-mounted mirrors so I can take the doors off without skipping a beat, and moved the LED pods from the WJ to the bull bar on the front bumper. As soon as I can get rid of the WJ, I'm probably throwing some 33" DuraTrac's on. I plan on bedlining the plastic part of the fenders/trim this week, and I've ordered some new replacement black Jeep and Unlimited stickers to effectively black it out.

Collison, if I wanted to go to 35's and do moderate wheeling, what else would you recommend other than the BL? I know I've talked to a few people and they said definitely regearing and chromo axle shafts. Both of those are out of my price range right now so I'm learning towards 33's until I have a real job and no more college student budget. I'm running a D44 in the rear and a D30 up front with 4" BS on the wheels.

No matter what tire size I move up to, I'm probably going to have to get a new tire carrier. I've been thinking lately and I guess I'll pass it by you guys... what do you think of building some sort of bracket/adapter that could transform a vertical tire carrier into a fastback style position to match the rampage top? An example of what I'm talking about would be something like this.

From my understanding, you do not need chromoly axle shafts unless you plan on getting a locker, and even then you should only need them for the D30, not the D44. I did not have chromoly shafts in my TJ. Do you know if there is a SYE kit installed? If not, you are definitely gunna want that. What kind of transmission does it have?

Some people may suggest upgrading the brakes and steering, but it is not necessary. If you want to go all out, someone suggested dual piston brakes to me, but that's gunna cost a pretty penny. The other options would be Black Magic brake pads w/ Centric rotors, or just Centric pads and rotors. The Centric pads are about a quarter of the cost of the Black Magic pads so that is what I went with.

Do you know what backspacing those wheels have? Judging from the pictures, it looks like they will work.

Just buy 35's make them fit and wheel it. If you break stuff fix it. I doubt you will wheel hard enough to break anything. I have a friend running 37 MTR's on a stock Dana 30 and does fine at Big Dogs. Don't get caught up in all the Jeeper crap or you will spend all of your money on stupid shit and never wheel because you will always need the next dodad until you can Jeep Forum Approved run a fireroad.

BadAssEddie wrote:Just buy 35's make them fit and wheel it. If you break stuff fix it. I doubt you will wheel hard enough to break anything. I have a friend running 37 MTR's on a stock Dana 30 and does fine at Big Dogs. Don't get caught up in all the Jeeper crap or you will spend all of your money on stupid shit and never wheel because you will always need the next dodad until you can Jeep Forum Approved run a fireroad.

Basically this, but you absolutely NEED a SYE otherwise the rear driveshaft WILL vibrate and break itself, even if you never wheel.

The LJ can get away with more lift before needing an SYE as the rear shaft is about twice as more, or more.

I'm now seriously contemplating 35's. Like WJ said, since my wheel base is longer my driveline geometry is a little more resistant to issues that the regular TJ has. Currently at 4" of lift I have no issues, but with the body lift who knows. Would adding a MML and/or TC drop help prevent driveline issues, or should I just go with the body lift and see how it goes? Eventually I plan on adding a SYE, but at the moment I'm trying to save as much money as possible.

Oh yea I forgot it is an LJ. The body lift should not affect the driveline because the driveline is attached to the frame. The only advantage a body lift gives is more fender clearance for the tires. A TC drop would be more than adequate to prevent any driveline issues with that amount of lift, but like WJ, you should be ok with the longer wheelbase.

NEVER install a transfer case drop. They only hurt you, especially the angle on the front shaft. Plus you're negating any lift/tire gains.

A body lift, like previously stated, will only affect the body for more tire clearance. Most go with 1" or 1.25". This shouldn't affect any drive line components.

Eventually with that small body lift, a tummy tuck and MML would be more easily achievable. When that happens, TT and MML, a SYE may be required.

Mr.WJ wrote:NEVER install a transfer case drop. They only hurt you, especially the angle on the front shaft. Plus you're negating any lift/tire gains.

A body lift, like previously stated, will only affect the body for more tire clearance. Most go with 1" or 1.25". This shouldn't affect any drive line components.

Eventually with that small body lift, a tummy tuck and MML would be more easily achievable. When that happens, TT and MML, a SYE may be required.

So does the TC drop only drop the rear end? I can't see any other reason why it would affect the angle of the front shaft in a negative way.

turnbull wrote:So does the TC drop only drop the rear end? I can't see any other reason why it would affect the angle of the front shaft in a negative way.

A TC drop also affects the front shaft. While the pivot point is the motor mounts, I've always been told that it points the front output yoke upwards a bit. While you may be helping the rear shaft, you're losing ground clearance, and not helping the front shaft out. Only way to go with the transfer case skid is up.

http://www.undercoverfab.com/32-standar ... ids-carbon