Had all my parts ordered for my front and rear diffs about a week after I tore everything down. So in the mean time, I had other shit that needed to get done.
I wanted factory Aisin locking hubs, but Toyota never offered them for the 4runner, however, they did have them on base model Tacomas which had pretty much the same front suspension design as the 4runner. So, took the 2hr drive up to Bloomington, IN picked up two locking hub spindles and cvs off a recked 96 taco. The main reason for running locking hubs is so I can run a welded front and also when i break cvs, all I have to do is unlock the hub and replace the cv at my convenience, whereas if you had the factory drive hubs, then youre kinda fucked with having to replace the cv where you broke it. Its also a nice thing, because with locking hub, the cv doesnt actually hold the hub assembly together, in essence being able to run the hub assembly without a cv at all, whereas with the factory, you have to have a cv to hold everything together.
A minor detail I had to take care of was the ABS system. Locking hub tacos did not have ABS, thus did not have ABS spindles, tone rings or a provision for the sensor. At the time, I really wanted to keep my ABS, not knowing 6 months later would prove to be useless, but we'll get to that later.
Anyways, had extra ABS spindles in my parts shed, so got those on the press and pressed out the drive hubs and bearings.
What it looks like all spread out from left to right(Drive hub, top:tone ring, outer wheel seal, bearing snap ring, bottom: inner wheel seal, spacer, hub bearing, far right is the spindle.)
Had to press the locking hub spindles off and got them cleaned up in the parts washer.
Got some fresh Koyo bearings to press in as well as wheel seals. Dont have any pics but basically, press the wheel bearing in, insert outer snap ring inside the spindle to hold bearing in, then before you press the hub in, hammer on the outer wheel seal then proceed to press the hub onto the bearing. The tone ring and spacer goes on the backside of the spindle followed by the retaining nut and lastly, the inner wheel seal. You do need a special tool to tighten the retaining nut or you can make your own, but basically, thats what holds the whole hub assembly together which needs to be torqued down to 209ft-lbs. I also used red threadlock, but is not necessary. Thats pretty much the run down. This would also be a very good time to get your upper and lower ball joints replaced if you think they are loose, something I did not do at the time, and would regret it in about 3 months after I got my hubs pressed in.