Do NOT go to South Main Auto. Take your truck to Richard's Auto Alignment in Salem. They charge $35 and the guy (Jessie) that works there is very knowledgeable about lifted and modified trucks. While you're there you can drool over his restored Blazer. Look him up on yellowpages.com.
I paid SMA over and over and over to align my front end and finally just gave up. Richards was recommended to me by the Bug Shop and they are great.
Alignment Shops
Moderator: Club Officers
true .... Collision Plus says they have the most advanced alignment computer in the state, as it will setup circle track cars, stock cars, everything, and then simulate the driving behavior on any condition preloaded into the computer .... problem is, their guy doesnt know how ot use it. they told me that they had zero'd the alignment on my jeep .... the thrust angle was off a few degrees and the toe in was 3/4" .... a bit far from zero if you ask me ....Steinberg wrote:Steering stabalizers are often a band-aid fix....true. But don't forget that MANY vehicles with leafsprung front axles came from the factory with a steering stabalizer and/or tracbar. Even with good leafsprings and bushings there is going to be some lateral play between the axle and the frame- enough that stabalizers and tracbars were needed for proper road manners even with street tires. If you think your stablizer is old and shot and you are out of other obvious ideas (alignment) go ahead and replace it.
Back to your original question... Cody had mentioned that Collision Plus in Cburg had the most up-to-date alignment rig in the area. However.... their alignment did not do his jeep much good.
dont do SM auto, they blow. they charge out the ass and the really dont know how to align a lifted truck.
i opted to bandaid it with a SS ... i dont want to put money into the suspension when im going to rebuild it completely this fall.alk1174 wrote:What was Codys solution to the DW?
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yotacowboy
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i wouldn't be surprised if you took it to SMA and they declined the work... they BARELY even let mine in the parking lot (back when the bed & topper were on it)... when i took it there to get aligned right after my SAS.
'91 Reg. Cab Yota DD: DOA 22re RV, .060 over,270 cam,ported,Thorley Tri-Y,2.25 cat,Flowey 40,SAS'd,Locked,Longed,Pig'd,Bumpered,Slidered,Sky wide axle,5.29's,Duals,Sky Tcase skid,37" Iroks,2.5" BS blk steelies,Allpro Hy-steer,HighAngle D-lines
An update for those interested. Tonight we slapped a set of 31 inch street tires on the front which lowered it down to about a level ride hieght with 35s in the back. We then checked the toe and found it to be way out at almost an inch toe in. We adjusted right close to zero and took it for a drive and no death wobble. Now I just have to figure out a way to level it back out with all four of the same tires. Keep in mind that the castor was also changed incedentily from the change in rake front to back with the different size tires. I'm not sure if it was one thing in particular or all combined that stoped it, but it sure feels alot better.