350 TBI cutting out...any ideas?

Post by **fatty** » Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:21 pm

This hasn't ever happened to me before, but the valves were ticking pretty bad and I adjusted them per the haynes manual the other day and now the engine sounds like it wants to stall when idling. (I tightened the nylock nuts until there was a slight drag and then cranked down on them 3/4 of a turn after that) The engine cuts out when I'm going 45 and slow down for a stop light. Then when I try to start it again (in neutral) it cranks really slowly like the battery is dying(but it's not).

Any techies know what is going on? I'm going to try to adjust them again tomorrow night (but only do like 1/4 or 1/2 a turn instead of the 3/4 I guess) because I'm leavin for big dogs friday. It would definately cut off on me on the trail and that aint' kool.

Thanks
Chris

Post by **Leach** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 12:17 am

No idea there, Baber will be there at Big Dogs if it aint fixed by then and he might of heard of it since he is the Chevy nut. But hope it gets fixed before that and we see ya out there man. Goodluck.

Leach

Post by **Username** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 10:13 am

drag on the rocker stud nut is not a good indication if the valve are at zero lash. loosen the nut all the way, then start tightening the nut while moving the pushrod up and down, when all the up and down movement is out of the pushrod the valve is at zero lash, give the nut another 1/2 turn (or whatever the manual says, 1/4, 3/4) to preload the lifter. be careful to make sure the pushrod stays seated in the lifter while doing this. also follow the manual as to which valve to do at TDC and which to do 1 crank rev past TDC.

also check for any bent pushrods when you adjust them this time. remove them one at a time, roll them along a flat surface and watch for any wobbling. make sure they go back where they came from.

Post by **yotacowboy** » Fri Apr 28, 2006 5:35 pm

i heard that jeep makes really good 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder engines. i think you should swap one of those in.

Post by **Dieselram** » Mon May 01, 2006 11:52 pm

You are adjusting the valves with the motor up to temp aren;t you?

Post by **fatty** » Fri May 05, 2006 7:06 pm

Yotacowboy, I might swap in a 22RE actually. Them TieYota engines run long, long time. Oh, yeah, how'd your rig do at big dogs, I didn't see you up there?

Haynes manual didn't say anything about temp of the motor, so I guess it doesn't matter.

Pulled all the pushrods out and they are fine. Gettin ready to pull the top end apart and change the camshaft.

Chris

Post by **Username** » Mon May 08, 2006 10:30 am

did you get the new cam in? how'd the old cam & lifters look?

Post by **fatty** » Mon May 08, 2006 12:19 pm

Havn't pulled the old one out yet...I went out of town last weekend. And it's been rainin ever since. I need a garage!!

Chris

Post by **fatty** » Mon May 08, 2006 5:04 pm

Check out my webshots of the pics I took today of the ole camshaft and a lifter!!!

http://community.webshots.com/album/550201868JpkEtQ

Let me know if linky no worky...

Chris

Post by **jonesy** » Mon May 08, 2006 5:22 pm

i think you might have burnt up that lifter a little bit :o

Post by **Username** » Fri May 12, 2006 10:27 am

what are the specs on the new cam?

Post by **fatty** » Fri May 19, 2006 4:48 pm

Haven't bought one yet...gotta wait for the paycheck, but I'm thinkin about comp cams: 12-388-4

Computer controlled flat tappet camshaft
Lift: .425''/.440''
Duration @ .050'': 206Â°/212Â°
RPM Range: 1000-5000

249-12-388-4

Sounds like it should be fine for my engine, but it's like $114 where I can buy a stock cam with lifters from napa for around 100 bucks. What do you think?

Post by **fatty** » Fri May 19, 2006 4:48 pm

Haven't bought one yet...gotta wait for the paycheck, but I'm thinkin about comp cams: 12-388-4

Computer controlled flat tappet camshaft
Lift: .425''/.440''
Duration @ .050'': 206Â°/212Â°
RPM Range: 1000-5000

Sounds like it should be fine for my engine, but it's like $114 where I can buy this cam with lifters from summit for around 150 bucks.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

What do you think?

Post by **fatty** » Sat May 20, 2006 8:15 pm

Dang, something I just thought about while eatin dinner tonight. When all this happened on the highway, I should have just pulled each individual spark plug wire off and cranked the motor until I found the cyl that was the prob. Then I could've just driven to big dogs on 7 cyl's and ran some trails and then drove home. Would that have worked??? I'll remember that for when I put the new cam in and crank down on the rocker arms too much again...god I hope I don't do that.

Chris

Post by **Username** » Wed May 24, 2006 10:12 am

Running it on 7 cylinders would be a bad idea seeing how much metal came off of the cam lobe and lifter.

That cam you picked will be pushing the stock fuel curves in the computer. You will probably be alright but you might want to consider getting a custom chip burned to take full adavantage. Affordable Fuel Injection can burn you a new chip for your engine and also delete the controls of non vital sensors.

Sinking Creek 4WD Association

350 TBI cutting out...any ideas?

350 TBI cutting out...any ideas?

This could be the cause!!!!!!!!!