HP D44 for $75, that fair? Also x-fer case question...
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HP D44 for $75, that fair? Also x-fer case question...
Found a fella selling a bunch of old Ford and Chevy parts and figured I'd pick up the D44 if that's a fair price. I haven't seen the axle, but he said it's a HP D44 from a 73-79 Ford truck (says he's bought and sold so many parts trucks trying to build his Bronco that he doesn't remember where this came from), 3.27 ratio, steering included...if nothing else, if that's a good price I'll offload it on my friend who's trying to put a straight axle on his newer 4runner.
Also, my transfer case in my 1995 Suburban is acting all kinds of funny (throws itself out of gear if you goose it in reverse, won't stay in 4L unless you hold your foot on it, when it snowed I never actually got out and checked, but I'm near 100% sure the front wasn't getting any power in 4H...in general not exactly hitting on much.)
Should I rebuild it (NP 241 I think) or should I attempt to upgrade to something else perhaps not chain driven? If the answer is go for the upgrade, any tips on what donor vehicle's case will get me closest to bolting on? Another option would be to hang onto the 241, rebuild it and buy a 205 to match the D44 I mentioned above...
Fella selling the D44 has at least one 205 for $150...that fair?
Full of pricing questions here, but I have to ask because the last time I priced any of this crap was 4 years ago and ended up stumbling on a free donor vehicle and never figured out what kind of money I saved...
Thanks,
Ryan
Also, my transfer case in my 1995 Suburban is acting all kinds of funny (throws itself out of gear if you goose it in reverse, won't stay in 4L unless you hold your foot on it, when it snowed I never actually got out and checked, but I'm near 100% sure the front wasn't getting any power in 4H...in general not exactly hitting on much.)
Should I rebuild it (NP 241 I think) or should I attempt to upgrade to something else perhaps not chain driven? If the answer is go for the upgrade, any tips on what donor vehicle's case will get me closest to bolting on? Another option would be to hang onto the 241, rebuild it and buy a 205 to match the D44 I mentioned above...
Fella selling the D44 has at least one 205 for $150...that fair?
Full of pricing questions here, but I have to ask because the last time I priced any of this crap was 4 years ago and ended up stumbling on a free donor vehicle and never figured out what kind of money I saved...
Thanks,
Ryan
the chevy 205 will not interchange with your truck. Your truck is Driver's drop case and the 205 is a passenger. Also, I'd say your problem with 4wd not working is the wax-bulb system on the front axle that engages 4wd.
Terry
Offroading: The hobby of turning perfectly good vehicles into scrap metal.
Offroading: The hobby of turning perfectly good vehicles into scrap metal.
Fella's holding the 44 for me till I go get it super bowl weekend (it's a guy from back home.)
I'll grab the 205 or anything else if folks want it, just need to tell me what, I'll check and make sure he'll hold it too and get back with you...he has a $100 351W that runs and a bunch of 9in parts (spools, axles, third's, etc) in addition to various Bronco/Ford truck body parts from the late 70's.
Terry: The wax bulb system would only explain 4wd not engaging the other day though right? That couldn't cause what I'm assuming are broken detents in the transfer case (perhaps among other things)?
I'll grab the 205 or anything else if folks want it, just need to tell me what, I'll check and make sure he'll hold it too and get back with you...he has a $100 351W that runs and a bunch of 9in parts (spools, axles, third's, etc) in addition to various Bronco/Ford truck body parts from the late 70's.
Terry: The wax bulb system would only explain 4wd not engaging the other day though right? That couldn't cause what I'm assuming are broken detents in the transfer case (perhaps among other things)?
yeah, the wax bulb would only keep the front drive line from pulling, the front shaft would still turn though. I'd say the detent could be broken or even so far as a damaged shifting fork. Just have to pull it and see. Maybe cheaper to pickup a new case from Agee's or Bill's and plug it in. As for the wax bulb, you can pay ($74 at Advance when I worked there) for the new bulb, or they make kits to convert it to a manually operated cable to give you 2Low as well as 2High. ctrow has a similar setup on his XJ.
Terry
Offroading: The hobby of turning perfectly good vehicles into scrap metal.
Offroading: The hobby of turning perfectly good vehicles into scrap metal.
if it is a 78-79 axle, the radius arm c-wedges are cast into the large knuckle assembly and therefore NOT a good candidate for a leafsprung axle swap. it's pretty easy to tell by looking at the axle if the wedges are welded onto the axle tubes or if they're part of a behemouth cast assembly that runs all the way from the knuckle to the center section on the driverside.
The Rescue Ranger: in pieces and scattered about the yard.
I'll look when I go pick it up, but like I said, I'm really not that worried about it if I can't use it because I'll be able the throw it on my friend and make $25 in the process Plus, he's actually considering going links/coils up front to match the rear on his truck...he has more money than I do.
Anyone know of a cheap cable conversion kit for making sure my front axle actually engages? I found one last night, but it's $250 for what amounts to a manual choke assembly out of a 1970 Datsun truck (a knob in the cab, a cable and some brackets...not $250 worth of stuff).
Anyone know of a cheap cable conversion kit for making sure my front axle actually engages? I found one last night, but it's $250 for what amounts to a manual choke assembly out of a 1970 Datsun truck (a knob in the cab, a cable and some brackets...not $250 worth of stuff).
No not the new one...sadly my bank account is far from any solid axle swap...my current front end refuses to pull, especially when it's cold, which more than one person has suggested could be the thermal linear actuator (or whatever the hell it's called)...so I'd like to switch it to something more fail safe, like a cable.