Toyota Kids Only...

Wrenching and Technical Information

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Fonger
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Toyota Kids Only...

Post by Fonger »

I'm going to preface this with a big thanks to Ary, who has been a great help with this so far, and hopefully he doesn't get too pissed that I'm asking around....

Anyways, I picked up a '89 4Runner and this thing is mint. Except for the fact that it needed a new timing chain and cover. Now I've got the front and top of the motor pretty much completely disassembled, and got the head machined and pressure tested and found out that my cam was shot. So here's the deal, I've gotta buy all the typical stuff, head gasket kit, timing chain stuff, all of it. Ary and I have been discussing Engine Builder out of Oregon and I love his prices, but I'm nervous that his prices are too good and the quality isn't there. Or if I should go with either DOA or LC Engineering. I'm not trying to do anything crazy here, I just want a stock '89 22RE.

So let me hear what you all thing and what your experiences have been.
I feel like a hundred bucks...
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4runner
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Post by 4runner »

adam, when i bought my 88 it came with a rebuild kit from engine builder,for the 3.0L. i thought it was great stuff, the heads were in great shape, had em checked out by a buddy of mine and there was nothing wrong at all. Havent had any trouble out of the engine since other than starting issues not related to the rebuild.
________
buy vapor tower
Last edited by 4runner on Mon Feb 07, 2011 5:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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MtnToys
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Post by MtnToys »

The 22re in my 4runner was rebuilt with all engine builder stuff including their 261 cam. It runs great, more low end torque then stock and gets 22mpg loaded down with 33" muds. I haven't had any issues but it has less than 5000 miles on it at this point.
Matt
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Stinson
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Post by Stinson »

I don't think you can go wrong with his stuff. You can pay the extra $$ for LC engineering but I think that all you will be doing is paying more $$$
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yotacowboy
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Post by yotacowboy »

I'd go with DOA or enginebldr.

Tim down at DOA seems to know his shit, especially about getting the most out of those overbuilt fork truck engines. i've flogged my DOA engine for around 50,000 miles with no problems - aside from having to run motorcycle 20W50 oil in it... i was for a little while getting some high RPM knock/predetonation, but after cleaning the injectors all was good.

Tim and Ted have different ideas about how to build high performance versions of those engines. For what you're looking for tho, both have options that make sense and are very similar. high volume oil pumps (not pressure!), dual row TC, steel backed TC guides, molybdenum rings, "RV" cams, yada yada... all make the 22re an even more durable engine for not a lot of bucks.


LC is good at turning cheap engines that make a little power into expensive engines that make a little (more) power. unless they're carb'd, they don't like to rev - and unless they rev, or have a big ass turbo, they'll only make 160-170 reliable hp and 170-190 ft/lbs. not much power.
'91 Reg. Cab Yota DD: DOA 22re RV, .060 over,270 cam,ported,Thorley Tri-Y,2.25 cat,Flowey 40,SAS'd,Locked,Longed,Pig'd,Bumpered,Slidered,Sky wide axle,5.29's,Duals,Sky Tcase skid,37" Iroks,2.5" BS blk steelies,Allpro Hy-steer,HighAngle D-lines
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Arya Ebrahimi
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Re: Toyota Kids Only...

Post by Arya Ebrahimi »

Fonger wrote:I'm going to preface this with a big thanks to Ary, who has been a great help with this so far, and hopefully he doesn't get too pissed that I'm asking around....
What, you don't trust me? :flipoff2:

Just remember this when I place my OME order in a couple weeks :idea: :mrgreen:
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Fonger
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Post by Fonger »

It sounds like enginebldr it is. Clay, where did you send your injectors off to get worked on? While I've got my engine torn down I was thinking about sending my stockers off to get cleaned. As far as the dual row TC, I was under the impression those were only in 22R engines, but I'm guessing that isn't the case. I'll probably pickup the entire list of parts from him except for the new rings. I really don't want to tear into the bottom end of that motor yet. Hell, it only has 138,000 miles on the motor.

P.S. - > How big of a pain in the dick is it going to be for me to drop the oil pan on my 4Runner? That IFS makes it look like a suckfest, but I don't know, I'm new to all this stuff...

yotacowboy wrote:I'd go with DOA or enginebldr.

Tim down at DOA seems to know his shit, especially about getting the most out of those overbuilt fork truck engines. i've flogged my DOA engine for around 50,000 miles with no problems - aside from having to run motorcycle 20W50 oil in it... i was for a little while getting some high RPM knock/predetonation, but after cleaning the injectors all was good.

Tim and Ted have different ideas about how to build high performance versions of those engines. For what you're looking for tho, both have options that make sense and are very similar. high volume oil pumps (not pressure!), dual row TC, steel backed TC guides, molybdenum rings, "RV" cams, yada yada... all make the 22re an even more durable engine for not a lot of bucks.


LC is good at turning cheap engines that make a little power into expensive engines that make a little (more) power. unless they're carb'd, they don't like to rev - and unless they rev, or have a big ass turbo, they'll only make 160-170 reliable hp and 170-190 ft/lbs. not much power.
I feel like a hundred bucks...
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jonesy
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Post by jonesy »

i have used some stuff from engnbldr ... and it was top notch.

great prices and good service. i had talked to him about some engine problems i had with my 83 and he set me up with a few things ...

come to think of it .. i have never heard anything bad about engnbldr, his products, or his services.
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yotacowboy
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Post by yotacowboy »

Dropping the pan does indeed suck w/IFS. it'll take you an afternoon extra to drop the front diff housing and all that crap you should replace with a D60, and an afternoon extra to bolt it all back up. i would say that aside from getting to the fucking-tiny-japanese-hands-bolts on the top of the transmission, if you're looking to do much more work on the engine, you're better off yanking it out. vaccuum stuff ain't that bad and the wiring's simple, too.

The dual row tc's aren't stock on the RE's but you can get a conversion kit. Ted's stuff is top notch - clevite bearings, felpro gaskets are plenty good. some of the propane guys are using different head gaskets (check out got propane's toy) - which may be more durable than the felpro stuff.

injectors? search you fucknut! this place does sometimes have tech:

viewtopic.php?t=299&highlight=injector+rebuild


Fonger wrote:It sounds like enginebldr it is. Clay, where did you send your injectors off to get worked on? While I've got my engine torn down I was thinking about sending my stockers off to get cleaned. As far as the dual row TC, I was under the impression those were only in 22R engines, but I'm guessing that isn't the case. I'll probably pickup the entire list of parts from him except for the new rings. I really don't want to tear into the bottom end of that motor yet. Hell, it only has 138,000 miles on the motor.

P.S. - > How big of a pain in the dick is it going to be for me to drop the oil pan on my 4Runner? That IFS makes it look like a suckfest, but I don't know, I'm new to all this stuff...

yotacowboy wrote:I'd go with DOA or enginebldr.

Tim down at DOA seems to know his shit, especially about getting the most out of those overbuilt fork truck engines. i've flogged my DOA engine for around 50,000 miles with no problems - aside from having to run motorcycle 20W50 oil in it... i was for a little while getting some high RPM knock/predetonation, but after cleaning the injectors all was good.

Tim and Ted have different ideas about how to build high performance versions of those engines. For what you're looking for tho, both have options that make sense and are very similar. high volume oil pumps (not pressure!), dual row TC, steel backed TC guides, molybdenum rings, "RV" cams, yada yada... all make the 22re an even more durable engine for not a lot of bucks.


LC is good at turning cheap engines that make a little power into expensive engines that make a little (more) power. unless they're carb'd, they don't like to rev - and unless they rev, or have a big ass turbo, they'll only make 160-170 reliable hp and 170-190 ft/lbs. not much power.
'91 Reg. Cab Yota DD: DOA 22re RV, .060 over,270 cam,ported,Thorley Tri-Y,2.25 cat,Flowey 40,SAS'd,Locked,Longed,Pig'd,Bumpered,Slidered,Sky wide axle,5.29's,Duals,Sky Tcase skid,37" Iroks,2.5" BS blk steelies,Allpro Hy-steer,HighAngle D-lines
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Fonger
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Post by Fonger »

The only dual row TC conversion kit I can find is from LC Engineering and it's $450, and that's too high for me. I'll just put another single row back on there and just save that dual row stuff for later. Thanks for the help all...
I feel like a hundred bucks...
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