dana 44 spindle bearing
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dana 44 spindle bearing
forum is slow and i need to figure this out eventually...
What is the best way to get it out/ put a new one in?
What is the best way to get it out/ put a new one in?
John
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
once you remove the hub screws and the snap rings, use the huge 4x4 hub socket and remove the nut. Then the spring, retaining and lock washer, and bearing should all pull out. I used a tiny 90 degree angle pick out of this old craftsman set. Just pack the hell out of those bearings when you re install.
This might be helpful:
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-14.html
This might be helpful:
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-14.html
'94 S10 Ext Cab SFA Full Width D44 HP Ford 9" RC 8004s 3" lift springs, Sky Hanger, Detroit locker 4.56 gears 37/12.50/15 SSR.
95 Z28, 383, 525hp
95 Z28, 383, 525hp
Are you talking about the little bearing inside of the spindle, or the wheel bearings? For the one inside of the spindle, it can be a bitch but once you have the spindle off, using a small pry bar or even a seal remover works ok. Depends on how seized in the spindle it is.
James C.
97 K2500HD 6.5/4L80E/NP241/9.5/14BFF
86'ish S10 Blazer LT1/4L60E/ORD Doubler/D60/14BFF
97 K2500HD 6.5/4L80E/NP241/9.5/14BFF
86'ish S10 Blazer LT1/4L60E/ORD Doubler/D60/14BFF
- willhf1011
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: Sun Jul 05, 2009 12:14 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD/Blacksburg
I assume you're talking about the inner spindle bearing john. You can either use a slide hammer with a pretty fine hook on the end (or make something similar that you can smack with a hammer).
Or if you take the spindle off you can use something to drive it out from the back.
Or if you take the spindle off you can use something to drive it out from the back.
93 YJ Under Construction
yeh im referring to the inner needle bearing. and i have the spindles removed from the knuckles one of them took a day to beat off cause it was a little rusty...And the needle bearings are toast and look like they are thirty years old.
But it can be done with a hammer and pry bar from the outside and knock it out. And then drive a new one in?
-dont have any kinda slide hammer.
But it can be done with a hammer and pry bar from the outside and knock it out. And then drive a new one in?
-dont have any kinda slide hammer.
John
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work. Just look down the length of the spindle if you can get a bite on it then smack it out.jstables wrote: But it can be done with a hammer and pry bar from the outside and knock it out. And then drive a new one in?
Nick
'79 Jeep
'99 F350 tow rig
'13 TDI Wagen DD
'79 Jeep
'99 F350 tow rig
'13 TDI Wagen DD
not sure that will help here. but it sounds like a good idea so i'll try it just to have one. and it's freealk1174 wrote:May not help in this situation but if you have an old shock laying around stretch it out and cut off the ends with a cut off wheel. The rod makes for a decent punch.
John
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
- Arya Ebrahimi
- Posts: 1896
- Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:58 pm
i was thinking about this but don't i have to be careful to not tear up the inside of my spindle where the bearing sits.Arya Ebrahimi wrote:I always cave the bearing in on itself with a chisel and it will fall out. It's trash, no need to be gentle with it
John
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
- Arya Ebrahimi
- Posts: 1896
- Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:58 pm
If you drive inwards towards the center of the spindle, you won't really risk fouling up the bearing surface. Regardless, the bearings don't rotate on that surface anyway, the exterior of those bearings is closed. In other words, the needle bearings rotate inside the assembly and don't roll on the spindle itself.
ok i got it. never done any of this stuff before and i've read what to do but that doesn't help as much as experience.
John
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust
DD-05 F150/Lariat 4dr/5.4/dual exhaust
Beater-Free 1988 XJ/~4"s10 leaf & 4.5"coils/long arms/35s
Trail-1984 s10 blazer/350/700r4/D44 & D60 welded/workin on highsteer
Sold!-1991 s10 blazer/4.3/bodylift/camaro rims/2.5 exhaust