Looking at '01-04 Tacomas, some tech questions...

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VerticalTRX
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Looking at '01-04 Tacomas, some tech questions...

Post by VerticalTRX »

The frame on my '97 Tacoma is getting pretty scary so I think I'm going to do the buy back. Looking at probably going with a '01-04 Tacoma setup exactly like mine (reg cab, 2.7L, 5spd), but if I found an ultra clean '95-00 taco down south I might go for that.

So, with that said, my main concern is with the front hub setup on the newer trucks. I think my Tacoma is the only one I've ever seen with lockout hubs and that's a feature that I would like to keep. I spoke with hippy about this and from what I gather it wouldn't be too hard of a swap onto a newer truck.

From what I gather the whole hub/spindle/knuckle assy and CV shafts off my '97 will plug right in to a '01-04, correct?

Or should I even worry about this? I feel like with the lock out hubs I might get better fuel mileage, have less wear on the CV shafts/front diff, and be able to drive on it with a broken front shaft if needed. Maybe the differences between this setup and the newer trucks are negligible.

Are the frames on the newer trucks the same crappy pot metal as the '95-00's? IE, if I get a newer tacoma in 4 years will I be back to the same problem? Will toyota extend the frame replacement warranty on newer trucks to second owners?

If I do get one with a nice clean frame should I completely seal the frame shut to prevent rust? I realize this would require pulling the cab/bed and welding shut every hole on the frame but I feel like this is the only way these frames are going to last. I'm not impressed at toyota's 'rust proofing' they did on recall on these newer trucks, most of them I have seen have been poorly done.

Any other input on trading in my current taco on these newer ones would be appreciated. I'm planning on going at least as far south as southern NC or maybe SC to get a good rust free truck, I want this one to last much longer than the 4yrs I got out of my current one. I've thought about other models, but I really like the small size, good mpg, and capability of the little 4cyl reg cab trucks.

Thanks for any input,

-Grubb
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Post by alk1174 »

I have had both the manaul and add system on my 00 and 04 Tacomas and have had no trouble from either one. I too would prefer the manual if I were beating my truck regularly but the convenience of the add system is nice. If you end up with the add system I would just study up on how it works so if it fails it can be easily fixed in the field.

As far as the frame rust I have had no problems with mine at all. I got frame coating from toyota a year ago and it seems ok so far. I did thoroughly degrease and pressure wash the frame first because I did not trust toyota to clean it. I know of others who had the coating done and they did not clean the frame and theirs is peeling off. Just like a good paint job prep is the key. I believe if you get the coating from toyota it comes with a 15 year rust warranty on the frame.
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Post by VerticalTRX »

The two biggest reasons for wanting manual hubs is better fuel mileage and also 2wd low range (which I forgot to mention in my first post). I often back up trailers, etc, where the gearing on these little trucks isn't low/slow enough and 4wd makes it hop around too much for tight maneuvering.

On the frame coating toyota puts on surely the don't cover in the inside of the frame with it? It seems to me like most of the rust occurs from the inside out on these box frames.


I haven't totally ruled out a 3rd gen 4runner either. It sounds like they don't have the rust issues that the tacomas do. What kind of fuel mileage could one expect out of a 3rd gen 4runner, 3.4L, 5 speed?
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Post by alk1174 »

Mine was coated on the inside with a wax type coating. It is common in the auto repair industry for repairs to areas like the rocker where you cant paint. It is a can with a long straw like applicator you insert in the hole and spray as you insert the straw. I have looked to try and buy it my self but havent been able to find it. I may be wrong here but I beleive the frame rust was more common on the 95 to 00.

I believe there is a mod to disengage the add switch so you can have 2 lo.

I accidentally drove to PA once with the hubs locked. No vibes and no major loss of power or fuel mileage.

My 3.4 auto DBL cab gets me around 21-22 on the highway. MY wife can get 2-3 miles better because of her driving style.
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Post by VerticalTRX »

alk1174 wrote:Mine was coated on the inside with a wax type coating. It is common in the auto repair industry for repairs to areas like the rocker where you cant paint. It is a can with a long straw like applicator you insert in the hole and spray as you insert the straw. I have looked to try and buy it my self but havent been able to find it. I may be wrong here but I beleive the frame rust was more common on the 95 to 00.

I believe there is a mod to disengage the add switch so you can have 2 lo.

I accidentally drove to PA once with the hubs locked. No vibes and no major loss of power or fuel mileage.

My 3.4 auto DBL cab gets me around 21-22 on the highway. MY wife can get 2-3 miles better because of her driving style.
Good to know, I have driven around for weeks at a time with the hubs on my '97 locked because I forget to unlock them. I really couldn't tell any difference in driveabilty, not sure how it affected mileage.


It looks like I may be looking more towards 4runners, I mentioned getting one to Leslie and she really likes them. I figure they are basically a tacoma with a fancy camper shell, and that's basically what I need anyways. I would love to find a base model 2.7L manual trans, but they are scarce as hen's teeth, even the 3.4 with a manual is pretty hard to find.

With that said, what should I know when looking at auto trans models in either 4runners or tacomas? Are they long lived like their manual counterparts or are they shot at 150k like the auto's I'm used to? I'm off-road about 3-4 days a week in my line of work, as well as pulling small trailers, etc. I can see an auto having some advantages and disadvantages here.
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Post by Arya Ebrahimi »

The auto's in most Toyotas(including that generation of 4runners) is the A340 tranny. A VERY widely used transmission that is pretty stout. It's essentially the same tranny used in my mini-truck which put up with me for 4 years AFTER living for 200k miles as someone's daily driver if that tells you anything.

It's also the same tranny internally that's behind every Cherokee 4.0 and in a lot of Isuzu's.

The most common issue they have is the solenoids get old and stop working, but they're easy to swap and not too expensive either.

I wouldn't worry about their reliability, they're just power killers.

Oh, and Toyota felt they were strong enough/reliable enough to put a version in the 95-97 Land Cruisers and in Tundras.
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Post by alk1174 »

I have had 3 auto toyotas and no problems with any of them. None of them have been high mileage but my first one was used pretty hard.
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Post by TerryD »

The key to long life with an automatic is regular fluid changes. Watch the color of the fluid and if you feel you may have worked the tranny overly hard go ahead and drain the fluid and add new.

Most performance transmission books will tell you that after a hard weekend drag racing or off-road use, a fluid change is in order. You can extend this using a large transmission cooler and high quality fluids that meet the manufactures requirements such as Ams-Oil.
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Post by VerticalTRX »

Thanks for everyone's info.


The one thing that is still holding me back on the 4runner is the fuel mileage. I've been looking at a lot of toyota forums and most people are getting 20mpg or less with basically stock trucks, 3.4L auto. Quite a few are as low as 16-18mpg highway, which for as much as I drive that wouldn't be acceptable. Not sure why these seem to get worse fuel mileage than the comparable tacoma, they only weigh a few hundred pounds more.
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Post by alk1174 »

As far as fuel mileage goes I have had a 2.7 and 3.4 with auto. The 2.7 did get all around better mileage but the big difference in the 2 was the in town and off road mileage. The 2.7 was a good bit better in these instances.
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Post by BadnewsCJ »

alk1174 wrote:Mine was coated on the inside with a wax type coating.

My 3.4 auto DBL cab gets me around 21-22 on the highway. MY wife can get 2-3 miles better because of her driving style.
Damn I missed the boat on that one. I got the letter in the mail saying that Toyota was doing a free undercarriage liner for the 2001-2004 models. I just figure they would spray over brake lines, fuel lines, shock mounts, not prep it correctly, etc. I'd rather get a new truck in 4 or 5 years than deal with spray on liner everywhere trying to work on the truck I have now. But inside of the frame waxy stuff? That's cool. I should of done more research.

And ~25 mpg when your wife drives???? That's incredible. As a comparison for you Grubb I get 18-19 in my 3.4 Xtra Cab w/ 265/75 Nitto Terra Grapplers. Krantz has BFG AT's so I dont think its the tire making up the difference. I also don't think I drive THAT bad. And I've got full synthetic in literally every oiled component on my truck. Geesh.
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Post by alk1174 »

It was my understanding that if you did not get the coating they were not going to extend the frame warranty to your vehicle and you may be SOL so I got it done but I may be wrong on this.

As far as the gas mileage 20-22 on the highway is for long distance uninterrupted driving so probably a best case scenario. And I sometimes dont believe my wife either. I wonder if her math is off (Radford Grad). But she is one of those that slows down for slower vehicles instead of accelerating to pass like I do. She never drives when I am with her to confirm. This was also with the stock tires and without the 1" spacer in the front coils. I had done the "deck plate mod" to the airbox and installed a better air filter which I think helped slightly with gas mileage and did help with throttle response.

My in town mileage sucks I never check it because I know its horrible. I am guessing in the low teens.

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Post by BadnewsCJ »

alk1174 wrote:It was my understanding that if you did not get the coating they were not going to extend the frame warranty to your vehicle and you may be SOL so I got it done but I may be wrong on this.



.
Your correct in this. I am SOL on the extended frame warranty. Oh well, I'll build it into a desert truck before it rusts out?
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Post by alk1174 »

I found the inside frame coating. Its called cavity wax 3M makes it as well as others. It would probably be a good idea for those who weld on their boxed frame.
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Post by VerticalTRX »

alk1174 wrote:I found the inside frame coating. Its called cavity wax 3M makes it as well as others. It would probably be a good idea for those who weld on their boxed frame.
If I end up getting a newer Tacoma that hasn't been treated by toyota I'll look into this stuff. What do they use to coat the outside of the frame?

Alternatively, I might just fill up a small sprayer with a diesel fuel/oil mix and spray the frame inside and out a couple times a year. I think that would be pretty effective as well.
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