Dial indicators and other diff building tools...

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Looking to acquire some tools for building diffs. I'm going to be building a 9" diff for my uncle, and will undoubtedly have some future diff work for myself as well. I've done some diff work in the past, but always with other people's tools.

I'd like to buy a dial indicator with magnetic base, a few clamshells for pulling bearings, and maybe a 3-jaw puller.

Do you guys have any suggestions on brands, models, or any other specifics I should look for?

Anywhere in particular to buy these? Ebay? Tool truck?

My uncle's paying as compensation for the work, and I believe in buying quality tools the first time, but I don't want to take advantage at the same time.

Also I need a quality torque wrench as mine is a $20 Advance Auto special, but I will search on that as I know there have been other threads.

Oh, one more thing, do you guys see a problem using an in-lbs deflection style torque wrench(i.e. not the click kind) for measuring pinion preload?

Thanks,

Ary

BTW, Scheid, if you're reading this, can I get my torque wrench back?

[Steinberg]

the deflection style is actually preferred for measuring preload, since you have to read the gage while the pinion is turning. with the click style its harder to tell what the drag is with the pinion turning.

if your uncle is footing the bill, skip the clamshells and get yourself a proper pinion bearing puller from yukon. I was wanting to build a similar tool for myself, but had to put that project on hold for a while.

i'm using some harbor freight dial indicator, magnetic base, and digital calipers.

[Arya Ebrahimi]

The Yukon bearing puller is $300 Although it is very nice, it's a bit much/too expensive for the current scenario.

Ary

[Steinberg]

that's why i'm building my own. even at $300, i bet it's worth it after doing a handful of setups.

[CRAWL3R TJ]

I agree with using a beam type or dial type in-lb torque wrench to measure your bearing preload. It will require more force than 15 in-lb to get the pinion to start rotating then it should drop back down to around 12-15 in-lb of force to continue rotating the pinion.

I bought a dial indicator and magnetic base from Harbor Frieght and didn't have a problem with it when checking the backlash on my 9".

[Trailduster79]

my beam style inch pound torque wrench that I use for bearing preload came from performancebike.com

This is the one I bought. The second link is a new one they have out that looks just like that one, but 3/8 drive instead of 1/4
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/pro ... ry_ID=4219

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/pro ... ry_ID=4219

That was the best price and location I found for an inch pound beam style torque wrench.

As for the dial indicator and magnetic base. You can find the magnetic base on sale at harbor freight from time to time, and I don't really see the need to spend a lot of money on a magnetic base when they all do the same job. You can get the harbor freight one on sale for around 10 bucks.

As far as the dial indicator, you can spend as much or as little as you want. Again, harbor freight has one on sale from time to time for about 7-15 bucks. I bought one last time I was there, but haven't used it yet.

My big foot pound torque wrench came from Sears, and was a gift for a birthday a couple years ago. It is a 250 ftlb torque wrench and was about 100 bucks.

[yotacowboy]

something to keep in mind re: the torque wrenches: if you buy from a 'reputable' manufacturer, most offer calibration for free. I've taken my ft-lb and in-lb wrenches to sears, and for free they recalibrated them. took 4 days, but if it's free...

[Trailduster79]

Also, to keep the warranty current on the craftsman torque wrenches, you need to have them recalibrated every so often.

Ask Kreis about that one.......

[MILLER]

Arya, take a look at my indicator base next time you are over, I got the base and indicator for $50, seem to be good quality, and I like the way it adjusts. Also, check out my bearing puller, worked very well for me even though it is a clamshell. Made it out of a harbor freight clamshell after I demolished their puller kit.

[hssss]

Ary
Knowing that you are going to be changing brackets as well this is a tool that would be worthwhile for that as well as future projects.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... &ihtoken=1
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Ford Gaa Engine Specifications

[Fonger]

I'm using a dial indicator and magnetic base from Randy's and it works great. Done like 5+ diffs with it and no problems. I'm holding out for a Randy's carrier/pinion bearing puller. Hands down worth the money. There is NO OTHER way to consistently remove all differential bearings without destroying them. As far as the torque wrench goes the one Stallings has works great. Beam-style inch pound and never needs calibrated and is the best/most affordable way to check pinion preload. As far as the foot-pound torque wrench goes a Craftsman is the minimum I'd go with. Mac/Matco/Snap-On if you can swing it. You get what you pay for with precision tools. A few other things to not forget is a press to press on the new bearings and a spanner wrench for that 9". Randy's has a pretty cheap spanner wrench that I'd go with. As far as clamshells and jaw pullers go, I haven't found one yet that can take bearings off without destroying them. I always make "dummy" bearings with a dremel tool so they slide on and off easily and I can get my shims right. If it's in the budget maybe try for a pinion depth gauge so you can nail the pinion depth on the first try. Well that's about it. Just set yourself up for success with good tools for diffs, cause diff work sucks to begin with.

[Trailduster79]

yeah, making dummy bearings out of your old bearings is a great idea.

I have a set that I made for my 60's, and I have saved myself a lot of headaches.