Slider
Moderator: Club Officers
square tube sliders
The ones I will make you are like what is on my truck, I was at the meeting this past Sun, my truck is the green Toyota pickup w/ 37s and a canvas cover. will try and post a link w/ Pic this evening, stupid wireless connection is acting up. They will have a piece of angle welded to the underneath and outside of frame and will be gusseted to the angle, 1.5"x 1.5" 3/16" wall. I am thinking $130 for regular cab, and $150 for extended, welded up and welded onto your truck, all you have to do is paint em. I can't do them for maybe a month or two, I am waiting to get a Millermatic 251, don't trust my 110V. Bugging me may speed up welder purchase.
- yotacowboy
- Posts: 581
- Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:28 am
- Location: b'burg
- Contact:
- yotacowboy
- Posts: 581
- Joined: Thu Dec 16, 2004 6:28 am
- Location: b'burg
- Contact:
eh... what the hell, here's my contribution:
honestly, i'd run .120 wall stuff as a minimum. you're not saving much weight or money over .083 or whatever smaller size. the toughest and cheapest sliders are gonna use schd40 pipe, but don't count on any pretty bends out of pipe. my sliders break out like this: legs and main rail under the door sill are 2x2 .25 wall square, with .120 wall DOM on the kick outs. i've only ever put scratches and dings in them. definitely gusset them where they attach to the frame and plate the frame with some 3/16's or 1/4 plate cut into diamond shapes/fishmouths.
honestly, i'd run .120 wall stuff as a minimum. you're not saving much weight or money over .083 or whatever smaller size. the toughest and cheapest sliders are gonna use schd40 pipe, but don't count on any pretty bends out of pipe. my sliders break out like this: legs and main rail under the door sill are 2x2 .25 wall square, with .120 wall DOM on the kick outs. i've only ever put scratches and dings in them. definitely gusset them where they attach to the frame and plate the frame with some 3/16's or 1/4 plate cut into diamond shapes/fishmouths.
'91 Reg. Cab Yota DD: DOA 22re RV, .060 over,270 cam,ported,Thorley Tri-Y,2.25 cat,Flowey 40,SAS'd,Locked,Longed,Pig'd,Bumpered,Slidered,Sky wide axle,5.29's,Duals,Sky Tcase skid,37" Iroks,2.5" BS blk steelies,Allpro Hy-steer,HighAngle D-lines
bilt Frrr beer
Pic of my sliders. Willing to make these and weld on for anyone. If prices above are too much, we might be able to work something out, alchohol persuades, and I am usually bored.
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/jamille8/Po ... %20044.jpg
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/jamille8/Po ... %20044.jpg
92 Toyota pickup, 5VZFE, SAS, 30 splines, football cover, spooled and welded, 4.10s, SOS prototype rear disc brake conversion, soon to be Maryland inspected
Re: bilt Frrr beer
Dude get a welder and start building. And hope your fab skills are good cause your not the best business man in the world. "Alcohol persuades, I will lower prices to work cause Im bored." Hahaha come awn turbo.MILLER wrote:If prices above are too much, we might be able to work something out, alchohol persuades, and I am usually bored.
member # dos
I bought my metal for my bumpers at Steel Services in Roanoke, but they have a $100 minimum purchase requirement. You might be able to check around with some of the machine shops. The only ones I know of are in Dublin and Pulaski, but if you want I can get contact info for them if you can't find any in B-burg or C-burg.