Sinking Creek 4WD Association

Is this a normal amount of crap in a sbc with 82k miles? I would like to just replace seals as needed an run the engine without rebuilding it unless it looks like it might have an issue.





Cleans off the pistons easily

Doesn't look bad. Does look like it was running a bit rich judging by the soot on the pistons. Make sure you plasti-gauge the bearings and you may as well put a set of rings on while you are in there. Completely dissassemble the engine and give it a good washings. It may even be worth the $60 to have it dipped at an engine shop, just to get all the gunk out of it.

TerryD wrote:Doesn't look bad. Does look like it was running a bit rich judging by the soot on the pistons. Make sure you plasti-gauge the bearings and you may as well put a set of rings on while you are in there. Completely dissassemble the engine and give it a good washings. It may even be worth the $60 to have it dipped at an engine shop, just to get all the gunk out of it.

Trow is getting to you.

I fully expected your advice to be to rebuild the entire engine with upgraded cam and ported heads

I would re-cam it and other stuff, but that's what I do...

Just check your clearances and clean it really well. You might do some oiling up-grades, but I'm not sure what LS engines need. A windage tray will help keep oil from splashing up into the rotating assembly when hopping around. This also helps keep harmonics out of the engine and increases power (minisculely). You can take a die grinder to any flashing on the inside or outside of the block to help lessen the chances of cracking or stress fractures. I'm not sure if they have them or not, but roller rocker arms are a good upgrade as well. Lower oil temperatures as well as lessened valve train drag. That's the kind of stuff I look at in a performance engine, even a mild one.

As long as it's hittin every other cylinder you're good to go!

Oiling on LS motors is a pretty big point. If you're running a car pan you almost have to run an accumulator. If you are sticking with the truck pan you can probably get away without one. Aftermarket pans are an option, but not a total solution. The only two legitimate options at the moment are kevko, who has terrible fit and finish/quality control and mast performance. The mast pan is still relatively new and I haven't read a whole lot of real world reviews of it, bit its cast aluminum and looks to be a really nice piece.