More Clutch Problems
Moderator: Club Officers
More Clutch Problems
Well,
I was experiencing some extreme difficulty while shifting about two months ago. So I replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders. It got better, but wasnt great so I moved on to my transfercase and transmission fluid. Again, it got better but still didn't feel right.
Now its slowly gotten worse, but still not as bad as it was before I did all this. Shifting is still a chore and can be really difficult 90% of the time. Occasionally I get a smooth shift. Then yesterday I disengaged the clutch (foot down) and went to shift but as soon as I touched the shifter, it sounded like gears grinding. Then I also couldnt get into reverse without the same griding noise.
The problem is persistent in 1st and Reverse, but still noticeable in 2-6. The only solution I see next is replacing my clutch (TOB, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch disk). I have never done a clutch repair, and although I don't mind getting dirty and have a decent set of tools, I have no idea what I am doing.
If anyone is down for a day of wrenching to guide me through this and help me out right when we get back from turkey break I would be very appreciative. Otherwise I am gonna have to pay for a shop to do it, so I can drive her home to jersey for winter break.
Any other ideas? Or would anyone be able to help me out and replace the clutch with me?
I was experiencing some extreme difficulty while shifting about two months ago. So I replaced my clutch master and slave cylinders. It got better, but wasnt great so I moved on to my transfercase and transmission fluid. Again, it got better but still didn't feel right.
Now its slowly gotten worse, but still not as bad as it was before I did all this. Shifting is still a chore and can be really difficult 90% of the time. Occasionally I get a smooth shift. Then yesterday I disengaged the clutch (foot down) and went to shift but as soon as I touched the shifter, it sounded like gears grinding. Then I also couldnt get into reverse without the same griding noise.
The problem is persistent in 1st and Reverse, but still noticeable in 2-6. The only solution I see next is replacing my clutch (TOB, pressure plate, flywheel, clutch disk). I have never done a clutch repair, and although I don't mind getting dirty and have a decent set of tools, I have no idea what I am doing.
If anyone is down for a day of wrenching to guide me through this and help me out right when we get back from turkey break I would be very appreciative. Otherwise I am gonna have to pay for a shop to do it, so I can drive her home to jersey for winter break.
Any other ideas? Or would anyone be able to help me out and replace the clutch with me?
| 2008 JKUR | 4.10 | 3" MC DUALRATE LIFT | UCA's | TRACKBAR | 35" TG | HARDTOP |
Re: More Clutch Problems
Definitely sounds like the clutch is not disengaging, though I couldn't tell you the cause. I do have a DIY manual that covers your year that I can take a look at when I get back on Sunday.
A good way to see if the clutch is not disengaging is to be on level ground, shift it into first (while the vehicle is off because I am assuming it will be easier that way), start it up (clutch pedal still depressed), and give it a little a little gas. If the clutch isn't disengaging, you should roll forward.
Also you can borrow the manual if you decide to replace the clutch yourself.
A good way to see if the clutch is not disengaging is to be on level ground, shift it into first (while the vehicle is off because I am assuming it will be easier that way), start it up (clutch pedal still depressed), and give it a little a little gas. If the clutch isn't disengaging, you should roll forward.
Also you can borrow the manual if you decide to replace the clutch yourself.
'15 JK Sport w/ 31.5" Duratracs, 3.6l Pentastar, 6-speed manual, 4.10 gears, Detroit TrueTracs front and rear
Re: More Clutch Problems
What manual do you have? I'm looking to get one soon.
I tried your trick to see if wasn't properly disengaging, and I didn't roll forward. Tried it in 1st and reverse.
Could this be anything other then the clutch not properly disengaging?
I tried your trick to see if wasn't properly disengaging, and I didn't roll forward. Tried it in 1st and reverse.
Could this be anything other then the clutch not properly disengaging?
| 2008 JKUR | 4.10 | 3" MC DUALRATE LIFT | UCA's | TRACKBAR | 35" TG | HARDTOP |
Re: More Clutch Problems
The manual I have is a Hayne's manual.
The gears grind even if you are not moving and you try to shift into first or reverse, right?
The gears grind even if you are not moving and you try to shift into first or reverse, right?
'15 JK Sport w/ 31.5" Duratracs, 3.6l Pentastar, 6-speed manual, 4.10 gears, Detroit TrueTracs front and rear
Re: More Clutch Problems
The gears have only ground a couple times but the shifting is stiff 90% of the time. I've been trying to double clutch more now just to try and help out the shifting, but still pretty rough.
| 2008 JKUR | 4.10 | 3" MC DUALRATE LIFT | UCA's | TRACKBAR | 35" TG | HARDTOP |
Re: More Clutch Problems
Ok here are the possible causes if the issue is in fact the clutch is not disengaging properly:
1. Clutch contaminated with oil
2. Clutch plate warped
3. Diaphragm spring fatigued
4. leakage of fluid from clutch hydarulic system. You already replaced the slave and master cylinders, but did you check the connecting lines?
5. Air in clutch hydraulic system. Bleed the system
6. Insufficient pedal stroke
7. Piston seal in operating cylinder deformed or damaged
8. Lack of grease on pilot bushing
1. Clutch contaminated with oil
2. Clutch plate warped
3. Diaphragm spring fatigued
4. leakage of fluid from clutch hydarulic system. You already replaced the slave and master cylinders, but did you check the connecting lines?
5. Air in clutch hydraulic system. Bleed the system
6. Insufficient pedal stroke
7. Piston seal in operating cylinder deformed or damaged
8. Lack of grease on pilot bushing
'15 JK Sport w/ 31.5" Duratracs, 3.6l Pentastar, 6-speed manual, 4.10 gears, Detroit TrueTracs front and rear
Re: More Clutch Problems
Any ideas as to what my next step should be?
| 2008 JKUR | 4.10 | 3" MC DUALRATE LIFT | UCA's | TRACKBAR | 35" TG | HARDTOP |
Re: More Clutch Problems
I would suggest using a vacuum bleeder and bleed the system that way
Re: More Clutch Problems
I've bled the master and slave already.
| 2008 JKUR | 4.10 | 3" MC DUALRATE LIFT | UCA's | TRACKBAR | 35" TG | HARDTOP |
Re: More Clutch Problems
I would check the connecting lines, and if they are fine, then buy a clutch kit and replace the parts. That should eliminate about half of those possible causes. If you are still having problems, then the synchronizer might be bad.
'15 JK Sport w/ 31.5" Duratracs, 3.6l Pentastar, 6-speed manual, 4.10 gears, Detroit TrueTracs front and rear
Re: More Clutch Problems
Would synchs be an issue because it is most prevalent in 1st and reverse, and if im not mistaken only 2-6 are synched gears.
| 2008 JKUR | 4.10 | 3" MC DUALRATE LIFT | UCA's | TRACKBAR | 35" TG | HARDTOP |
Re: More Clutch Problems
Well first is synced but reverse is not, so that is a good point. Probably not the synchro then. Try replacing the clutch. I think a Luk clutch kit is only like $100 so it won't break the bank.
'15 JK Sport w/ 31.5" Duratracs, 3.6l Pentastar, 6-speed manual, 4.10 gears, Detroit TrueTracs front and rear
Re: More Clutch Problems
So super weird, but yesterday and today she has been shifting beautifully. Not sure if since I don't drive much that it took a bit for the synchromesh to work its way through the trans and lube everything up or what happened. So I guess clutch repair is on hold knock on wood.
| 2008 JKUR | 4.10 | 3" MC DUALRATE LIFT | UCA's | TRACKBAR | 35" TG | HARDTOP |
Re: More Clutch Problems
Well not to say that you do not know this, but to my knowledge, when you change the tranny fluid, the majority of it actually does not drain, and what does not drain is still in the tranny. It could be that the synchromesh that you added need to completely mix with what was still in the tranny for it to work properly I guess. Hopefully you don't have any more issues.NJKURPat wrote:So super weird, but yesterday and today she has been shifting beautifully. Not sure if since I don't drive much that it took a bit for the synchromesh to work its way through the trans and lube everything up or what happened. So I guess clutch repair is on hold knock on wood.
'15 JK Sport w/ 31.5" Duratracs, 3.6l Pentastar, 6-speed manual, 4.10 gears, Detroit TrueTracs front and rear
Re: More Clutch Problems
Bit the bullet and got the parts i needed. Decided to stop hoping that the problem would fix itself and just get it done.
The problem is, I have pretty much no idea what I'm doing when it comes to replacing my clutch so I need some help. Parts come in next week. Would anyone want to help me out on 12/5, 12/6, 12/12, or 12/13. If one of these days works for someone I would prefer not to have to pay for a shop to do it.
The problem is, I have pretty much no idea what I'm doing when it comes to replacing my clutch so I need some help. Parts come in next week. Would anyone want to help me out on 12/5, 12/6, 12/12, or 12/13. If one of these days works for someone I would prefer not to have to pay for a shop to do it.
| 2008 JKUR | 4.10 | 3" MC DUALRATE LIFT | UCA's | TRACKBAR | 35" TG | HARDTOP |